In Siberia, in a wonderful corner of it - in a village located on the very southern point Lake Baikal, a young family lived in a small house. Having left with big city closer to nature and secluded in this quiet, cozy place on the shore of the lake, they waited with trepidation for the approach of each summer.
At 8 o'clock a minibus arrived at the house. Within 5 minutes, 6 backpacks were loaded into the car, only passengers were missing. Without a doubt, some kind of interesting trip.
Dmitry was fifteen years older than his wife Evgenia and loved this young, attractive girl in her own way. Summer for them is a time of unity with nature, magnificent views, mountains and healing waters of mineral springs.
They found their grace in the mountains of the Eastern Sayan, that mysterious world, still little known and uniquely beautiful.
The trip was planned for 20 days to the sacred Buryat valley Shumak, where our heroes had already visited several times.
Who were their four companions?
These guys came as a team from the city of Nyagan, Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug, to admire Lake Baikal, the wonderful nature of this region, and climb the Khamar-Daban ridge to Chersky Peak. The organizer of their trip was Rustam, a 53-year-old man whose vigor one can only envy. Every day, in any weather, Rustam jogged several kilometers and took a morning bath in Lake Baikal, which had not yet had time to warm up with the sun's rays.
Valera, a tall, athletic man of 27 years old, was clearly not happy with the morning procedures of the elder, however, like the two other boys. Stas was 12 years old: a quiet, taciturn and slightly lazy boy. Roma, on the contrary, being only one year older than Stanislav, was a smart but shy child. This was their first trip to the mountains.
All together they are interesting, cheerful guys. Rustam, like Dmitry and Evgenia, loved the mountains with all his soul and was not traveling through them for the first time. He walked around the entire Crimea and dreamed of climbing Elbrus.
Everything was ready for the trip. The entire route was conditionally divided into three sections. The first part of the road passed along the Tunkinsky tract to the village of Nilovaya Pustyn, famous for the healing properties of mineral springs. The second section of the route lay from the Nilova Hermitage to the Dry Stream near the village of Khoito-Gol. The last section, in fact, represented the road to the Shumak springs.
That morning, fog spread across the Tunkinskaya Valley. He gently wrapped the mountains and only occasionally showed their huge lonely peaks.
The guys were silent and were already approaching the bridge over the river. Irkut.
“In 2001,” Dmitry began to tell, “before our first trip to these regions, there were heavy downpours over the entire Irkutsk region and Buryatia. Irkut overflowed its banks and flooded the road to the Nile Desert. Many bridges and buildings were destroyed by mountain rivers. A month later, the water in the rivers subsided noticeably. There were gullies and dips on the roads. It took a lot of effort to get to the village.
Do you remember, Dima,” the girl turned to her husband, “the inhabitants of the Nile Desert were surprised at how we got to them. And we joked that we had arrived.
Yes, I still remember the weight of our backpacks that year: 45 and 20 kilograms! - Dima continued. - We went to the mountains for 17 days. We collected iron cans of stew, porridge, and condensed milk; They took cereals, even raw potatoes.
Have you even reached Shumak yet? - asked Rustam.
“In five days,” Dmitry answered. - Now we are so smart: dry cereals, soups, noodles, but then we thought differently.
The guys crossed the Nile Desert and drove past unusual place in front of Dry Creek. It looked very gloomy. Rotten stumps and dried tree trunks stuck out everywhere. Fallen trees were mixed with some thorny bushes, half-rotten pine needles and sand.
“Here comes Dry Stream,” Dima said animatedly, “we’ve arrived.”
The stream got its name due to its frequent drying up. Back in 2001, our heroes took a cold bath in it, but today it was a small stream.
The fog remained in the Tunka Valley. The sky was without a single cloud and sucked in its deep blue color.
The guys unloaded the car, thanked the driver and were ready to hit the road.
Well? Let's hit the road?! - Rustam asked impatiently.
- Let's hit the road!!! - the team cheerfully supported.
And so the first steps towards the intended goal were taken. The forest road continued beyond the stream. Rustam confidently walked ahead of everyone.
There is only one road, you won’t get lost,” he said.
“When we walked here for the first time,” said Evgenia, “we didn’t go along the riverbed, but straight, along this very forest road.” But not there!!! What gorgeous meadows spread out in front of us. What a rich grass stand! Something pleasant and gentle wafted from the clearings. Buzzing, chirping and clicking could be heard everywhere. Beyond the clearings the path disappeared, and we returned back to the fork.
- I got the hint, follow the riverbed! - Rustam said, turning right.
Beyond the pebble riverbed the road continued again. An hour later, the guys found themselves in a small clearing on the left bank of the river. Khubyty.
Twenty minutes rest! - Dmitry said, stopping.
- Boys, take off your backpacks and let your shoulders rest.
“In the year when the strings of our backpacks were cracking from excess weight,” said Evgenia, “this place served us as an overnight stay. In the morning, my whole body ached, and it was impossible to touch my shoulders.
- And what did you do? - asked Roma.
- What?! - the girl continued. - We slept until 11 o’clock, until we heard the tramp of a horse. Here come the reinforcements, we said. Just luck: the Buryat Tolya was sitting on Vaska’s horse and there was no load. The Buryat loaded our backpacks onto the horse and walked behind him. So we reached the border of the forest.
“It’s okay for you to dream,” Rustam concluded the conversation, “it’s time to hit the road.” We don't have horses, but we have our legs.
It was 75 km from the Nilova Hermitage to the Shumak springs through the mountains, through the Shumak pass. The entire journey was supposed to take two and a half days. Today the team had to reach the forest border. They walked together and spoke little. Rustam sometimes asked Evgenia about this or that plant.
“These are crow’s feet,” the girl said, pointing to the spear-shaped leaves of the plant. - Heals wounds well.
“And I thought that you were offering me the “Crow’s Feet” candy,” Rustam answered with a smile.
Evgenia kept walking behind her husband all the time. However, this has always been the case. They adjusted to one beat of the step and sang a song together:
Where are we going with heel?
Big, big secret!
And we won't tell about him
Oh no, oh no, oh no….
Vinny, here is the guest clearing.
In this clearing, tourists usually relax under a wooden canopy, someone prepares tea over a fire, someone begins to unload their backpack from sweets, fruits... Our heroes also stopped at this place, if only to put candy as a gift to the Buryat God - Burkhan.
And now they are on the road again. The road gradually turned into a path that went uphill with a rather steep climb.
At this place, said Evgenia, “young tourists” often meet. They rise up and chew chocolate and bagels; they are carrying fruit in nets, holding pots, buckets, and this is not the entire list of “vital things in the mountains.”
“It should be noted,” Dmitry continued, “that people encountered along the entire path to Shumak are, as a rule, friendly and greet each other. Nature makes them kinder, cleaner, closer to each other. Mountains love and accept a person only when he, in turn, loves, respects and worships the forces of nature, the greatness of the rocks and ridges.
The team reached the top of the mountain. A slight descent, and the water surface of two small blue-green lakes opened in front of them.
Last year, said Evgenia, one of the lakes was missing. In its place was a depression covered with a green coating. And now, look, it’s as if nothing happened to him.
Some stop near the lakes for lunch, others for the night, but to Dmitry and Evgenia the water of the reservoirs seemed undrinkable. Behind the hillock, further along the path, ran a stream with clear mountain water. The place by the stream was the young family's annual dinner table.
This is where we will have lunch! - Dima said, approaching the stream. - The weather is good, you can rest for an hour or an hour and a half.
“Stas, Roma,” added Rustam, “gather mushrooms for Evgenia for lunch.”
Together, a dinner was prepared consisting of mushroom soup, crackers, tea, dried apricots and dates.
Strength has been restored and you can move on. After the stream we had to immediately climb up the mountain. A full stomach was uncomfortable. Everyone was pretty sweaty. Having overcome the climb up the mountain, everyone felt noticeable relief.
Now the path ran rapidly along the mountain forward.
Look how much Kuril tea grows on the slope! - Evgenia said with delight.
- What are they doing with him? - Rustam asked.
“They brew it and drink it like tea, it’s very healthy,” the girl answered.
From this place we started photographing and filming the most beautiful landscapes. To the right, in the blue haze, Kyren and vast pastures for livestock could be seen. To the left rose the Amazing Mountain. The river roared in the gorge. Yehe-Ger.
The guys often stopped in front of the honeysuckle bushes to eat the large dark blue berries.
They had a good time today, but they were no less tired. As planned, we made a halt at the edge of the forest, between Amazing mountain and Mysterious Rock.
Kuril tea flowers, some honeysuckle berries and lingonberry leaves were collected. Everything collected made a delicious tea. After dinner, everyone fell into a deep sleep.
July 25. Morning. The sky is overcast. Valera filmed the nature around him with a video camera. Numerous streams flowed along the slope of the Amazing Mountain and, approximately in the middle, above the depressions in the rock in the form of holes, fell in small waterfalls. At first glance, it seemed that the water was running not from the top of the mountain, but from these very holes. An amazing picture was created!
Opposite this mountain stood the Mysterious Rock. Some saw it as a dinosaur, others saw the head of a monster with a huge nose, nostrils, sunken eyes and giant horns. At the foot of the Mysterious Rock bushes of black currant and honeysuckle grew. You can find sagandayli bushes. Dima and Zhenya learned about this plant last year from other avid tourists.
Sagandaila, or Adams' rhododendron, is added to tea to produce a tonic drink with a surprisingly pleasant aroma. The plant stimulates the functioning of the heart, kidneys and brain; increases potency and relieves fatigue. In a three-liter pot of tea, it is enough to add 2-3 sprigs of sagandayli, large quantity harmful.
After having breakfast and drinking miraculous tea with sagandaily, the cheerful and cheerful team was ready for the most difficult day.
Thanks to this place! - the guys exclaimed. - Thank you, Shumak!
The first obstacles were small swamps, slippery stones and tree roots. The path gradually climbed upward. Today the guys had to reach the Shumak pass, cross it and get to the parking lot at the waterfall. This path was not easy. The forest ended and was left behind, and a new forest belt begins only from the waterfall. Therefore, there is no firewood or wood chips in this area. And even in the open air, exposed to rain and snow.
Now the guys were opening a fence gate made of tree trunks. The fence ran from the mountain on the right to the mountain on the left and served as a fence on the path of the cows. All these buildings belonged to the local Buryats and, undoubtedly, the cows too. This herd of cows was one of the most beautiful: adults, young animals and recently born calves. Nature, meadows rich in herbs, and mountain air made them attractive animals: clean, fluffy and sleek.
Behind the fence, the forest vegetation was replaced by mountain tundra vegetation of rhododendron, dwarf birch trees, Kuril tea and mountain flowers.
The guys walked along the valley of the Ekhe-Ger River. They were surrounded by high cliffs. Fog walked through the gorges, hiding the mountain tops from them.
Greetings, mountains!!! - Rustam shouted loudly.
- Hello, rocks! - the rest of the team supported him.
The guys were shocked by the beauty that appeared before them, they were happy! For Dmitry and Evgenia, these mountains never seemed the same. Every year there are new pictures: mountains in fog, illuminated by the sun, in snow, with different shades of rocks, with streams that have appeared or disappeared... These cheerful people, grains of sand among the majestic mountains, could not find words to convey at least part of their admiration.
“It will rain today,” Roma noted.
“Definitely,” Dima emphasized confidently.
The conversation stopped there. But why did Dmitry say this so confidently?
A new amazing view opened up before the team. A waterfall rushed down between two rocks. Next flowed a mountain river flowing into Ekhe-Ger. It didn't cost anything to cross it.
“When we went to Shumak for the first time,” Dmitry noted, “this waterfall was not here. Now we admire it every year!
- Hello, waterfall! - the girl said affectionately. - How beautiful you are, hidden among the mountains.
The guys hung around this place for a long time, took pictures and simply rejoiced at the natural miracle.
Last year,” Dima said, “me and another guy decided to swim in this river. And the water running from the snowfields is icy.
“They turned blue, poor things,” Evgenia interjected.
“Nothing of the sort,” the man answered, “it was cold at first, but then the body began to breathe.”
No matter how tempting Dmitry’s words sounded to Rustam, he still decided to limit himself to washing his face and neck.
It’s time to go,” Dima noted, “the weather is deteriorating before our eyes.”
- Maybe it won’t rain after all? - asked Roman.
“It will be,” answered the girl.
And again everyone is walking on the char. After some time, an obstacle appeared: r. Yehe-Ger broke the path. It was larger than the previous one, and anyone who has ever gone to Shumak remembers it. In a full year, the river creates noticeable difficulties, to the point that it is impossible to cross. The family from Lake Baikal has been lucky in such cases so far. Only in 2002, on August 7, the river rushed in a stormy stream, and there was snow on the mountains around.
Without much effort, jumping from stone to stone, everyone ended up on the opposite bank of the river.
Behind the hillock new mountain landscapes opened up. The mountain ranges stretching on both sides closed, forming a pass into the valley of the Shumak springs. To the right stood a mountain with a huge pink scree, dissected by shallow white and dark gray cracks. From this place, the Shumak pass seemed low. From beginners you can hear “Ugh, and this is a pass? And you said tall and complex...” This erroneous opinion often leads to an incorrect calculation of one’s own strength and complete exhaustion before the most difficult climb. There have been cases when tourists made a mistake by choosing a higher pass located to the left.
The Buryats say, Dmitry said, that once a lonely old woman was going to Shumak for treatment, lost her way and went to another pass. The climb turned out to be extremely difficult, but the old woman still got up. From the top she looked at the surrounding mountains and realized that there was no descent here, that she had overcome the wrong pass. But the old woman did not lose heart, the healing power of the Shumak springs attracted her, the spirit of Shumak endowed her with energy. She descended from the false pass and climbed to the real Shumak pass.
Yes,” said Rustam, “it’s not for nothing that they say that whoever crossed the pass and reached Shumak has already been cured of many ailments.
Meanwhile, the rise continued. The guys have already climbed a high mountain; nothing ahead no longer blocked the path to the top of the pass. Dark gray screes stretched to the foot on both sides. Here and there pikas squealed and occasionally small white, yellow and burgundy flowers were seen among the stones.
The weather was gloomy, clouds were walking in a circle over the pass. Rustam's team was worried that all this might be an obstacle to retreat. Only Dima and Zhenya were calm, they had an explanation for this.
The group rose, everyone was silent. Sweat streamed down his face. About every 10-20 steps everyone stopped to catch their breath.
A cold wind blew. It began to drizzle, quickly giving way to downpour. Everyone continued to rise silently. Another push and the whole team was on top. Here it is - the long-awaited piece of land. There are only mountains around, snowy peaks in the distance, winding rivers, mountain lakes. Somewhere there is the sacred valley of Shumak.
As if by magic, in an instant the rain stopped falling and a blue sky appeared above the children’s heads, exclusively above the top of the pass. The soul sang, the head was spinning, and it seemed that there was no one happier than these people. Some were glad that he was still young and vigorous, others were filled with a sense of pride.
“Why did you say so confidently that it would rain,” Roma asked, turning to the young family.
There is such a belief,” answered Dima, “when you cross the pass, the rain must cleanse you of sins and worldly problems in order to enter sacred valley Shumak is clean both in body and soul. They say that evil people who do not respect the mountains, who do not appreciate the pristine beauty of nature, are severely punished by the spirit of Shumak. There were cases when groups were closed in on the pass or under it by snowdrifts and rapid river flows. Such people either purified themselves or returned back without ever reaching the Shumak springs. So you can’t joke with Shumak’s spirit, you have to love him, go to him with bright thoughts, and leave with sincere gratitude.
Yes,” Rustik sighed, “thank you, Shumak!” Thank you for the blue skies and the warm welcome.
At the top of the pass there are sticks stuck in the shape of a tripod. They are all tied with ribbons and ropes. There are a lot of coins, sweets, matches around, there are photographs, notes - all this is brought as a gift to God - the spirit of Shumak - the Buryats call such places oboo.
The descent from the pass is steeper than the ascent, which takes at least an hour and a half. It was especially dangerous at the very top. It was necessary to walk with extreme caution: many of the stones were swaying and, moreover, were not yet dry after the rain.
Below the pass there are beautiful emerald-colored lakes. A flat path passed them, lined with dwarf birch trees on both sides.
“The pass is behind us,” said Dmitry, “just a couple more hours and we will enjoy relaxation, a delicious dinner and sunset.”
Now the guys walked along the right bank of one of the branches of the Left Shumak, flowing from the lakes under the pass. Delphiniums bloomed along the path - purple flowers that many gardeners grow in their flower beds.
Ahead stood out a strip of bushes, pines and spruces. The white smoke of the fires slowly rose above the forest and reached our team with a light breath of wind.
Almost immediately, as soon as the guys found themselves in the forest area, the Shumak waterfall appeared in front of them, falling into a huge bowl from a height of 30 meters. You can enjoy its amazing beauty and the gentle sound of water for a long time. Even in July, it is possible to see a huge hanging ice floe of a soft blue color, from under which the stormy Shumak stream is trying to make its way.
Having gone down a little from the mountain, the waterfall disappears from sight, but its distant sound of water can still be heard. This is where good overnight stops are located. A particularly large parking lot is located almost at the very foot of the mountain, at the confluence of two branches of the Left Shumak and the confluence of another river, rushing in a stormy stream from the neighboring gorge. The camp was set up in this wonderful clearing.
The boys' dinner was even more delicious than before. Maybe because everyone was tired and hunger was making itself felt. Maybe because everyone put something of their own into these preparations. Honeysuckle berries, mushrooms, sagandaily leaves, lingonberries and bearberries were collected. Mushrooms make excellent soup, berries make delicious jam, and medicinal plants make miraculous tea. You can imagine how pleasant it is to watch the sunset, lounging by the fire, having dinner and drying your clothes.
“Once we happened to see an interesting sight at this place,” Dima said, pointing his hand towards a huge fluffy pine tree, “on one side of the pine it was drizzling, on the other there was no rain. At the same time, the sun shone brightly, its rays passed through the raindrops, creating a shine with rainbow colors. In the gorge, just where we will go tomorrow, two bright rainbows flaunted one above the other.
“On Baikal,” said Roma, “we also saw two big rainbows. They were just above the Kultuk Bay, but disappeared very quickly.
At ten o'clock the young family and boys went to their tents. Rustam and Valera sat by the fire for a long time, either silently or talking about something.
It rained heavily during the night, but on the morning of July 26 the sky cleared and everything was favorable to a warm, sunny day. After breakfast, the guys dried out the tent awnings a little, put some porridge for the chipmunk and set off on a new journey. We had to walk for about 4 hours to finally see the holy monastery of Shumak.
But the path on this part of the path is not easy: stones, tree roots, and after the night rain - puddles of mud. In some places the path ran along the edge of a huge scree, or it was cut by stormy streams rushing from the mountains towards the deep canyon of the Left Shumak. Knee-deep in mud, twisting their legs, the guys were not devoid of optimism and quickly rushed forward to the healing springs of Shumak.
On the way, they met a family with a 5-year-old girl, who, like her parents, was carrying a small backpack. Many were already returning from the Shumak valley - these were small groups of two or three people and large ones, over 40 people. Everyone greeted each other, asked who was where and, of course, wished good luck. Good luck in the mountains will not hurt anyone, because the success of a hike depends not only on good weather, but also on a favorable combination of various circumstances. In the first years of hiking, Dima and Zhenya tried different shoes, they rubbed calluses, twisted their feet, there were cases when their feet could not stay on slippery stones and they fell with their entire weight with a backpack on their shoulders. All this created certain difficulties, especially when it was necessary to cross the pass.
Our team was definitely lucky. The ridges were flooded with the blinding sun, only Roma rubbed blisters.
It’s okay Romka,” Zhenya said, “you’ll come to Shumak, climb in the mud, and the calluses will go away, and your skin will become like a baby’s.”
And then the peak of the Three Captains appeared. Of course, he didn’t say anything to Rustam’s team, but Dmitry and Evgenia were definitely glad to see him.
The Left Shumak came out of the canyon and formed a wide valley, from the right into which the Right Shumak flowed in a wide stream. Opposite the mouth of the Right Shumak, a pebble island formed - it was a helipad.
In 2003, Dmitry and Evgenia, with the help of the Kyren Buryats, built a small house on Shumak. Our group was trying to reach this winter hut. The family from Lake Baikal was already dreaming of how they would relax on their bunks, sit by the fire under a canopy and visit the neighboring winter hut, built a year earlier by a woman from Bratsk. It was this woman they hoped to find now in this hut.
Any tourists can stay in winter huts, but on Shumak the following rule applies:
Dear comrade!
Come in, live,
But the owner will come
Give up your place!
This moment, when it is necessary to evict someone from their winter hut, has always been unpleasant, and besides, Dima and Zhenya were worried about the safety of the house, because a whole year had already passed since their vacation at the Shumak springs.
A log was thrown across the deep part of Right Shumak, then a small ford and the guys found themselves on the right bank of the Shumak River.
People could be seen everywhere, and the pleasant smell of a fire filled the air. On the very shore there was a taiga bathhouse - poles covered with film with an iron stove inside. Girls and boys frolicked around her.
The guys walked along a wide, well-trodden path, often branching in different directions. Along the path there were huge anthills. Pine and spruce trees grew all around.
Winter huts could be seen among the trees: some were completely new, others looked more like dugouts. One very old hut had a wooden arch with the inscription: “Welcome.” A little further away stood a wooden cannon, an idol and other bizarre figures. Rustam's team stopped every now and then to take a closer look.
Stop stopping,” said Dmitry, “then you’ll see everything.” You will have enough time for this; there is a lot more interesting things here.
Dmitry did not deceive; literally a few steps later other winter huts appeared. Next is the eye source, radon bath. The “Radon Bath” house is hung on all sides with various wooden plaques, figurines, and figurines. Nearby there were benches on which people were sitting, waiting for their turn. Someone was squelching their feet in a radon bath located right there in the open air.
Even further away is a large clearing, in the center of which a Buryat two-story datsan was built. The first floor of the datsan was a hexagon, the second was a square. Instead of roofs there are green caps of vegetation. Next to the datsan are clay figurines depicting Buddha. Every year a shaman comes to Shumak; as a rule, on the first Sunday in June, the Buryat national holiday surkharbaan is held here, which translated means “shooting at a leather target.” At this time, over 1000 people gather on Shumak.
There were tents in other clearings; apparently, all the winter huts were occupied.
And now the guys have reached two completely new winter huts. The fresh tree has not yet had time to darken over the years. Each winter hut had “verandas”, under the roof of which firewood was stored on one side, and massive wooden tables and benches on the other side. Above the entrance to the winter hut there were signs nailed down with the owners of the house indicated on them. Opposite the houses there were fire pits laid out under a canopy, around which there were benches. A taiga bathhouse was built a little to the side.
A woman was preparing dinner on a fire near the first house.
Tatyana Leonidovna,” Dima and Zhenya called out in unison, “hello!” And we were wondering whether we would find you here or not.
- Oh, guys! - the woman was happy. Hello, what a great fellow you are! Are you on foot again?
“Yes, as always,” Dima answered.
- Are you on foot or by helicopter? - asked the girl.
“Oh, it’s already hard for me on foot,” the woman said, “we are on horses from Khoito-Gol.” How long will you stay?
“We want to rest for ten days,” answered Dmitry. Here are the guys from Nyagan with us this year: Rustam, Valera, Stas and Roma. Is there anyone in our house?
- Well done, nice to meet you. “And I’m Tatyana Leonidovna,” the woman said, smiling. Yes, there is a young couple with a Rottweiler in your house,” she answered Dmitry and Evgenia. But I warned them that you usually come in these numbers. So go, you still have to go to the sources, we’ll have time to talk. I'll be here for a few more days.
This ended their conversation, and the guys walked together to their home.
Hello, our house! - said Dima.
At that moment, the Rottweiler tied to the pole of the “veranda” barked zealously. A man came out.
Good afternoon - said Dima. We are the owners of the house, do you see on the sign it says “House of the Suchilkin family”?
“Hello, everything is clear,” the man answered. Have you seen any free winter huts there?
“Perhaps the house next to the datsan is now vacant, the group seems to be getting ready to leave,” Dmitry answered.
- Can you give us half an hour? Now my girlfriend will return from the radon bath, and we will move,” the man said.
- Of course, thank you! - the guys answered.
Half an hour later a fire was burning near the house, the whole team was getting ready to go to the springs.
To get to the springs, it was necessary to return almost to the very mouth of the Right Shumak. There, across the river. Shumak bridges were made from logs; in total there were at least four of them. In rainy weather, the water level in the river increased noticeably, and all the crossings were demolished by the rapid flow. During the flood, not only bridges were demolished, but also the banks where winter huts stood were washed away, and some springs and baths were washed away.
The guys started their tour with therapeutic mud. It was evening, the sun was setting behind the mountains. But this did not stop him from standing with his feet in the mud, however, Rustam smeared himself with it from head to toe, after which he ran around the clearing to warm up.
There is a legend about how the Shumak springs were discovered,” Dima began to tell. One hunter from the Soyot tribe was hunting in the Sayan Mountains. He met a deer and shot, but the arrow only wounded the poor animal in the leg, and the deer began to move away from the hunter. Pursuing his prey, the hunter went further and further into the mountains. In the river valley he saw this deer lying in a puddle of mud. Noticing the hunter, the deer stood up and ran away, healed, as if nothing had happened.
So, Roma, tomorrow your calluses won’t hurt,” Zhenya added.
There are two muds in total on Shumak - one shallow, the other deeper. The mud is soft and greasy and is said to be good for treating joints and skin diseases. A bathtub is built above the mud, in which all the dirt must be washed off. Water flows into it from springs. Below the mud is a huge stone field, representing deposits of mineral salts.
There are also many winter quarters on this bank of Shumak. One is located just opposite the mud, the others are not far from the springs, or in the depths of the forest.
Immediately after the mud, the guys began testing water from different sources.
Shumak springs are one of the most interesting objects of the Tunkinskiye Golets, a natural monument of Buryatia. The beautiful river valley is compressed from the east and west by steep forested slopes, and from the northeast by steep walls of char. At an altitude of 1558 m above sea level, more than 100 mineral springs - radon, thermal and carbon dioxide - come to the surface. The best properties of mineral waters from different regions are concentrated on Shumak. Most sources have their own name and number. So, for example, source?7 “Stomach”, ? 35 "Nerves", ? 69 “Heart”, etc.
This combination of valuable medicinal properties is unique in Siberia. It is interesting that from under one stone there can be several outlets of mineral waters, and each source has its own temperature, taste and gas saturation. All sources are located in three valleys: one on the right and two on the left bank of the river. Shumak. On the right bank there are radon baths and an eye spring. The main number of springs, healing mud, kidney and heart baths are concentrated on the left bank.
The first thing the guys tried was spring No. 42 (43) “Tuberculosis”, located immediately behind the mud. Opposite the source stood a wooden idol with the number 83 carved on its chest. A nice wooden idol was attached to its left shoulder. Behind the Arshan “Tuberculosis” springs No. 30, 35 “Nerves”, ? 37 "Hangover", ? 34 “Intestines”, as well as many other sources of unique taste. Each arshan was decorated with colored ribbons and coins.
To the right of the springs, on a hillock, there was a small canopy, the walls of which were hung with various tablets, drawings and icons of Buddha. On the table lay a variety of crafts made of wood, pine cones, and coins. different countries. Some plaques and figurines were signed in the 40s and 50s of the 20th century.
Many arshans have wooden idols and clay Buddhas. The “Heart Vice” source is guarded by a handsome hero with the inscription on his cap “Thanks to Shumak.”
But the tastiest thing was the water from spring No. 5 “Lungs,” which was not decorated at all.
Behind the bridge “Women’s whims. Shumak. 1977” there was source No. 1 “Cancer”, the source “Headache”, beyond which behind the bridge “Male stubbornness” there was a second valley of sources. The smell and taste of the water from spring No. 1 did not attract attention, but the objects and things left here by people in gratitude for the healing did not allow anyone to pass by.
In the second valley there were springs from the kidneys, bladder, liver, and lungs. There were also the springs “Male Stubbornness” and “Women’s Whims”, open kidney and heart baths.
By the end of the round of the springs, the children’s stomachs were bloated from the amount of water they had drunk. In fact, the Buryats advise drinking water not from all sources, but only the one that a specific person needs. You need to come to Shumak for 21 days: in the first week, take a tablespoon of water from a radon source, by the end of the week all the diseases you have will worsen; the second week they are treated with water from the desired source; the third week - rest.
On their shore, the guys washed their eyes with the water of the Eye Spring, took a Radon bath, wrapped themselves up warmly and headed to the winter hut to prepare dinner.
The whole team became good friends during the hike, everyone knew what to do and no one sat idle.
Early the next morning, Rustam raised the boys so that they and he could make a tour of all the sources. Already at 7 o'clock the fire was burning and the pots were boiling.
Get up! Stop sleeping! - Rustam shouted to the rest of his comrades. Dmitry and Evgenia had no choice but to join the early breakfast. Only Valera continued to snort in a deep sleep.
On the same day, the guys decided to start radial trips, so to speak, to experience the local beauties. The first route was an excursion to the Sacred Pillars.
The excursion to the sacred Pillars is fascinating and useful. The pillars are a rock on the left bank of the Shumak River, the slope of which once crumbled in the form of columns. There is even a free-standing pillar. This phenomenon is natural, but very mysterious. Neither snow nor rain are afraid of the Pillars. It is believed that the guardian spirit of Shumak lives in this place. Here matter and energy are combined in a special way. Many generations of ancestors, revering this place, left here their positive energy of thoughts and feelings. On the right bank of the Shumak River, opposite a unique rock, there are two figurines: the heads of women. The Buryats call them “gods”. The “gods” are hung with simple, silver and gold jewelry. Buryat men come here to meditate and say that they see their future. Women come to ask for children (this place is often called Women's Valley). In gratitude for the miraculous power of the valley, people leave various gifts here.
The next day was devoted to rest, collecting firewood and baking fluffy cakes. Making flatbreads on Shumak is an interesting thing. The dough is kneaded with water from the “High Acidity” source and flour. The flatbreads turn out fluffy, like yeast. In this process, everyone had their role: Evgeniya kneaded the dough, Valera rolled out the flatbreads, Rustam and Roma kept the fire under the frying pan, Dima fried, and Stas put the ready-made flatbreads in a deep bowl.
After a delicious dinner, everyone began to make a gift for Tatyana Leonidovna - today was her birthday and the guys were invited to the table in the evening. After some time, the gift was ready. It represented the head of a forest brownie made from a stump. There are coins instead of eyes, and a festive bow is tied around the neck. Rustam attached an icon and a booklet with prayers to the “Domovenka”.
In the evening, all the invited guests gathered at the birthday girl’s winter hut. Tatyana Leonidovna and her friends prepared a lot of goodies and baked pies. A birthday in the mountains is a fairy tale!
Another day was allocated for a radial hike to the Three Captains Peak. The path to the saddle before the peak passes along the river in the Graphite Gorge. The rocks and scree of the gorge are made of graphite. In places where layering is clearly expressed, bizarre figures and patterns have formed. Already from the saddle the most beautiful panoramas of the mountains open up! Winter huts can be seen in small dots below, and the Shumak River meanders like a snake.
“In 2001,” Dmitry said, “as soon as we climbed the saddle, a strong thunderstorm began. The rain and cold took us by surprise. Thunder rumbled, lightning flashed here and there. Going down turned out to be even more difficult than going up. The stones were wet and slippery, and my legs were trembling from the steep, dangerous descent. But luck was with us - we returned to the winter hut safe and sound, although practically barefoot.
And here is the top of the peak! My heart is pounding in my chest. How do you feel at the top? Pride, great happiness, love, gratitude - all this gives a person moments of bliss and admiration. I always remember the lines from V. Vysotsky’s song:
There are no plains here, the climate here is different
Avalanches come one after another,
And here, behind the rockfall, the rockfall roars.
And you can turn, go around the cliff,
But we choose the hard way -
Dangerous as a military trail.
Who has not been here, who has not taken risks,
He didn't test himself
Even if he was snatching stars from the sky below.
You won’t meet us below, no matter how you reach out,
For all my happy life
Tenths of such beauties and wonders...
The guys returned to camp by a different route along a little-trodden path, in some places completely absent; climbed some rocks, then heroically descended from them. Between all these pleasures, searching for the path that someone told them about, they were soaked by rain. At Pilman Peak, with its snowy peak shrouded in thick fog, they were caught in a hail cloud. After a long search, at some wonderful moment a path appeared under our feet and, wet and tired, the guys safely returned to camp.
The next day, everyone rested together, admiring the rocks on which they foolishly crawled yesterday.
And here is a new day, new strength and new aspirations - the day of a walk to the Marble Falls. The excursion to Marble Falls is calm and the shortest. A beautiful mountain cascade of waterfalls and washed-out “baths” harmoniously combine with the surrounding rocks. The sound of waterfalls is pleasantly soothing! Blueberries, honeysuckle and many other useful plants grow around.
Another radial exit was a walk to Golden Lake. According to one legend, pieces of gold the size of a fist were found somewhere in these places, but the people who found them disappeared under mysterious circumstances. Since then, no one has been able to find that rich gold deposit. There are a lot of wild onions and sagandaili growing along the entire path to the lake.
In addition, the guys had to give 2 gifts to the hostesses of Shumak. According to one of the beliefs, Shumak has two mistresses - two sisters, once beautiful girls who lived in this place. The girls had young men. They once went to the city to get gifts for the wedding. At this time, an epidemic of a terrible disease passed through the Shumak settlement. The beautiful sisters also fell ill and died. And the love of the young people was so strong that local residents consider the two sisters to be the mistresses of Shumak. Since then, in Shumak there has been a custom of giving two gifts.
Rustam, Valera and the boys made beads from date seeds. Dima and Zhenya wrote an appeal to the guests of their winter hut.
Morning. 5th of August. The sky is gloomy. The backpacks are packed. Having said goodbye to Shumak for the last time, saying dozens of times: “Thank you, Shumak,” the guys set off on their way back - to the world of cities, cars and bustle.
And now everything is on its way. Melancholy tormented everyone's heart. The comrades sang S. Privalikhina’s song together, albeit in a slightly modified version:
We're leaving Shumak again, we're leaving Shumak again
A dull pain squeezes the soul, heart, chest.
We leave Shumak again and tell him bye
Be holy and bright, be pure, be beautiful.
We'll come here in a year, we'll come here in a year
We intend to carry the dream for a whole year,
That in a year we will come here to cleanse our souls a little
And at least a week in this place to rest...
The whole state of friends was in this song. In one day they walked from Shumak through the pass to the border of the forest. On August 6, everyone was already on Lake Baikal. My heart was breaking into pieces when they sat down in minibus, lost sight of the distant Sayan peaks. But as Rustam said then:
- I'm not saying goodbye, I'm saying see you later!
Later, Rustam sent a letter to Dmitry and Evgenia. The letter contained the following lines:
“Believers have a place where everyone wants to go - Holy Jerusalem. From now on, Shumak will be my mountain Jerusalem. It has everything I've dreamed of for so long:
1. Difficult, scenic, amazing route.
2. As a reward for determination, for overcoming many obstacles (getting away from work, the city, debts, unnecessary friends, saving money) - treatment of the body at springs; treatment of a sick soul poisoned by civilization by contemplating the beauties surrounding this valley.
3. Radial routes near the Shumak valley are a scattering of pearls in the Shumak mountain crown.
4. Your home is a shelter in which travelers-tourists, finding a roof over their heads, falling from fatigue on a “super-bed”, praise God for his mercy.”
The high-mountainous (1558 m) valley of the Shumak River, which is fed by several dozen mineral springs, varying in temperature, mineralization and dissolved elements. The water here cures literally everything. But the path to them is difficult. You have to ford mountain rivers and storm a pass of 2700 meters. One seasoned tourist He even joked: “A patient who decides to be treated at the Shumak springs must have remarkable health and the dexterity of a mountaineer and cavalryman.”
This place is mysterious and covered with many legends. According to one of them, the first person to come to these places was a hunter. He was chasing a deer and had already shot it with his bow. But the deer jumped into the spring and galloped away alive and unharmed. This is probably how the healing properties of the Valley of 100 Springs were discovered.
They also say that there is a gold mine on Shumak that appears and then mysteriously disappears. It was first found by the escaped convict Dmitry Demin in the 60s of the 19th century. Following in his footsteps, the Irkutsk gold miner Kuznetsov came to the deposit, but he soon died under mysterious circumstances. Finally, at the beginning of the 20th century, after the revolution, the deposit was found by mining technician Novikov, who was shot by the Bolsheviks. The members of his expedition were unable to report the exact location of the vein. Further expeditions to search for Deminsk gold, carried out in the 50s and later, were never successful.
Geography
Shumak is a high-mountain valley of the Shumak River in the center of the Eastern Sayan Mountains, which are often called “Little Tibet”. The Shumak River is the right tributary of Kitoy.
Climate of Shumak
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The climate is harsh, sharply continental. Even in summer, heat can give way to rain and even snow. Best time to visit: July-August. AttractionsChildren's Mountain (pillars of Huukhein-Khad). Located 5 km downstream of the Shumaka River. Childless families, whom doctors are unable to help, come here and ask for a child. |
Places of worship for sister spiritsDolzhon and Molzhon. These girls are read as the spirits of the area. Once a hunter brought his daughters to Shumak for treatment. But a tragedy occurred and the girls died. Since then, their souls have lived on Shumak and kept order. Locals say that the spirits love it when their guests sing and have fun. And they get very angry if people quarrel, destroy the forest, and litter.
Sacred places. They are marked by pillars and trees tied with ribbons. It is customary to leave requests and thanks here. A knife left on Shumak is a request for the birth of a son, a doll is for a daughter, a wooden spoon is for good health. And in gratitude they leave entire poems, drawings, and crafts.
Neighborhood guide
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Buryat yurt. In the village of Khoytogol, which is located on the trail to Shumak, a traditional eight-story yurt was built, which housed a local history museum. Here they talk about the life, customs, and rituals of the Buryat people, as well as how they changed when the Cossacks and Russian settlers came to this land. Burkhan-Baabai. The legendary habitat of Shargai-noyon - the western defender of Tunka. On this high sand dune(1076 m) in the vicinity of Khoytogol, shamanic rituals and Buddhist prayers have long been held. And sand, according to legend, has miraculous powers. It is sewn into a small bag and carried with you as a talisman when going into the army, hung in the shed and in the house to protect households and livestock from the effects of evil spirits. |
Visit Shumak on tours
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Source Pearl.Thermal source on the picturesque shore of Irkut. Its healing waters help in the treatment of diseases of the joints and nervous system.
Nilova Desert. Balneological resort one and a half hours drive from Arshan. Here they take radon baths, which have a healing effect on the body, and undergo a course of strengthening procedures. And they also drink natural water, enriched with silver ions. Located half an hour from the trail to Shumak.
Arshan - the most famous hydrotherapy resort in Eastern Siberia. Luxurious nature Tunka Valley, clean mountain air and clear water falling from a height of many meters - all this is Arshan. And there are dozens of interesting sights.
Almost every year I travel to the Shumak Valley of 100 mineral springs. They are located on the territory of the Republic of Buryatia. The river Shumak of the same name flows through the valley. Who believes that Shumak is a place of power in Siberia, among the mountains.
The springs are difficult to access and are located in the heart of the Sayan Mountains. Each source has its own taste, temperature, and mineral composition. All sources are different from each other, even if, for example, we take two sources gushing from the same griffin.
I make my trips to Shumak at different times of the year. It all depends on the company and the availability (or lack) of free time. Therefore, I think it would be a sin not to write a little about the place where I visit so often, where I rest my soul and body, where I free myself from earthly shackles, where all problems fade into the background, where I am spiritually cleansed.
Where cars don't go
How to get to this extraordinary place? You can get to Shumak by helicopter from Irkutsk in 1 hour or on foot in 2-3 days, if you are in good physical shape, from the nearest village 70 km from Shumak. There is another exotic option - on horseback (you and your backpacks are carried). Also 2-3 days. The guides are local Buryats. They don't come cheap.
I haven’t traveled on horseback myself, but some say it’s interesting and even extreme, some say it’s not worth it, they say the horses smell bad, you ride and inhale the aromas + gadflies accompany you all the way!
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People from young to old go to Shumak: here you will see children with their parents, the elderly, the infirm, and a lot of young people. Everyone is drawn to the magical healing power of arshans. There is no civilization here! There are no roads, no shops, no entertainment...
But the number of people wanting to visit this place is not decreasing! Every year thousands of people come to Shumak, fly in by helicopter, live in tents, in winter huts or at a camp site that pleases tourists with its hospitality.
Shumak base
When flying to Shumak, I stay at a camp site, which is also called “Shumak”. A little about it: a cozy, quiet, comfortable camp site, designed for a small number of people. You will see here 25 houses, a cafe-dining room with a wonderful chef, and, of course, all the amenities =)
Imagine: around you are mountains, taiga, wild animals, unpredictable weather... and next to it, a camp site that will shelter, feed and warm you =)
Welcome to the Shumak camp site.
Houses at the Shumak camp site
Here you have hot water, electricity, a bathhouse, massage, satellite TV, the Internet, and even satellite communications! A tour guide conducts excursions. Such a small island of well-being! =) There were even wild animals at the base (chipmunks, squirrels, even an ermine)!
During the construction of the base, not a single tree was cut down, not a single hundred-year-old cedar was cut down; all materials were brought in by helicopter!
And most importantly, the camp site is located a 5-minute walk from the mineral springs.
What is there at the base and in the area
Personally, I’m not a fan of mineral water, I fly to Shumak, in simple terms, to relax and enjoy the world around me =) but people mainly come here for health, for Shumak water. Here they take radon baths, mud baths, and drink water.
They say that you need to try water from all sources, and only then be treated and improve your health with the water that you like! For me, the most delicious water was source number 6. What kind of source this is, what they use for treatment, you will find out upon arrival at Shumak =)
As for radon baths, there are contraindications. They should not be taken by pregnant women, patients with the cardiovascular system, or oncology. It is recommended to take it once a day for 10 minutes/session, without immersing the heart area in water. Personally, I immersed myself completely, only leaving my head on the surface =) after procedures with radon, my skin becomes like a baby’s!
Just think about it, thousands of people come to Shumak every year. Many of them live on Shumak all summer (the “season,” so to speak) and not at the camp site, but in winter huts! How many interesting and amazing stories healing and recovery you can hear on Shumak.
Why do people go to Shumak
I talked to a man who overcame cancer! It’s a pity I can’t say how much time he needed to spend on Shumak. He said that he drank water from a radon spring. I drank so much that there was no free space left in my stomach. And then, lo and behold, having arrived in my hometown, I learned that the disease had subsided. Such miracles!
Some treat feet, some skin diseases, some diabetes…. there are many examples! One thing is clear: you need to be here yourself, see everything with your own eyes and try it with your own mouth.
What is the most best time for a stay on Shumak? It's different for everyone. I really love autumn on Shumak.
Firstly, silence reigns, there are very few tourists, mainly those who live at the camp site, who will fly back by helicopter. Hiking tourists are rare already in the fall, because... The mountain pass is “closed”, as they say, there is already high snow on the pass at this time.
Secondly, you can enjoy Shumak’s taiga gifts in the form of lingonberries, honeysuckle, and pine nuts.
And, thirdly, whoever comes to Shumak for health, for healing water, will not go wrong, because... The water in the springs at this time is most useful, because... not diluted with melt and groundwater.
People get there as best they can
In summer, Shumak is warm, cozy, noisy, but still hospitable. In summer there are a lot of people vacationing and receiving treatment on Shumak. If you take a helicopter that flies to Shumak once a week, then it can arrive 4 times, fully loaded with people, i.e. He brings 80 people. And how many more people go on foot and on horseback! Sometimes there is a queue for radon baths and mud, and there are always a lot of people at the springs.
In spring, Shumak is also not crowded. There is still snow (March-April), it seems that winter still reigns in these places. But the sun warms like spring =) In spring, too, only tourists at the base live on Shumak; there are no hikers yet.
Resting place at the Shumak tourist center.
Well, in winter, what can I say, it’s cold =) like everywhere else in Siberia =) but if you compare it with Irkutsk, then Shumak is several degrees warmer in winter than in the city. For example, in winter new year holidays in 2009-2010 I was on Shumak.
And so, in Irkutsk the temperature was -40 for a couple of days, and in Shumak -30 =) so if you need to survive the frosts, go to the mountains =) well, in general, the springs do not freeze all year round, even in winter all the springs regularly flow from -under the ground!
Helicopter excursions
I also want to focus on one amazing place, which is located 6 km from the Shumak springs. These are the sacred pillars of Huuhayn-Had (they are called “Child Mountain”). Childless women come here to ask for children, leaving gifts for the Shumak spirits. When asking for a boy, they leave a toy like an airplane, a car, or a gun. When asking for a girl, they leave a doll, hairpins, earrings, etc. as a gift. They say you can see your future here!
During my entire stay on Shumak, not a single bad thought came to me; I only think about good and lofty things. So my advice to you: fly/come to Shumak. Where you live here doesn’t matter!
If you love comfort and coziness, then go to the camp site, but if you are not afraid of thunderstorms, wind, or the lack of earthly goods, then you can stay in the winter hut or in your trusty tent.
Sacred pillars of Huuhain-Khad.
A film by Dmitry Slobodchikov about a unique place in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, namely the healing springs of Shumak.
SHUMAK is a natural healing complex. The only place on the planet where more than a hundred healing springs. The water of each of them, like a finely tuned tuning fork, selectively affects one or another organ of the human body, returning it to a natural state of balance and harmony - to health!
Shumak springs (bur. Shumaagai arshaan) are mineral springs in the Okinsky region of the Republic of Buryatia, located at an altitude of 1558 m in the Eastern Sayan Mountains on the Shumak River (the right tributary of Kitoy), on the northern macroslope of the Tunkinskie Goltsy.
The sources come out in three lines:
The first line runs along the left bank of the Shumak River and consists of 44 individual griffins. Water temperature - from 10°C to 35°C. Radon content - from 0.4 to 2.0 mμC/l, carbon dioxide - from 0.26 to 0.99 g/dm³.
The second line has a length of 175 m. The water temperature is 25-35 ° C, contains 3.4 mμC/l radon and up to 0.56 g/dm³ carbon dioxide.
The third line includes baths located below the mouth of the right tributary of the Shumak. It has a length of 110-120 m and has 7 griffins. Water temperature - 22-55°C. The main output contains 0.6 g/dm³ carbon dioxide.
Calcareous steps form in the river bed as a result of the release of excess salts in the form of tuff during cooling.
Attractions
Children's Mountain (pillars of Huukhein-Khad). Located 5 km downstream of the Shumaka River. Childless families, whom doctors are unable to help, come here and ask for a child.
Places of worship of the sister spirits Dolzhon and Molzhon. These girls are considered the spirits of the area. Once a hunter brought his daughters to Shumak for treatment. But a tragedy occurred and the girls died. Since then, their souls have lived on Shumak and kept order. Locals say that the spirits love it when their guests sing and have fun. And they get very angry if people quarrel, destroy the forest, and litter.
Sacred places. They are marked by pillars and trees tied with ribbons. It is customary to leave requests and thanks here. A knife left on Shumak is a request for the birth of a son, a doll for a daughter, a wooden spoon for good health. And in gratitude they leave entire poems, drawings, and crafts.
How to get there?
You can get to the Shumak springs on foot, on horseback or by helicopter:
From the village of Arshan through the Arshansky pass, with access to the Kitoi River and along the orographically right bank to the Kitoi spit with the Shumak River, then along the Shumak River to the springs itself.
The path from the village of Nilova Pustyn through the Shumaksky pass (2760 m) to the springs. This path is much closer in length (50 km) and takes on average 1.5-2 light days for experienced tourists, or 2-3 days for ordinary people and includes two overnight stays. This route can be reached on horseback (one overnight stay). In 1 day (more precisely, from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.), prepared tourists can walk from the springs to the Nile Desert (that is, “exit” from the springs) - since most of the road (after the pass) goes down and the backpack is usually empty when leaving .
From Irkutsk by helicopter. The flight time is about an hour. IN summer time(from May to September) there are regular flights every Friday. In winter, helicopters also fly, but rarely and when a group is recruited. Departure time is usually in the morning and may vary depending on weather conditions.
From Irkutsk – by helicopter (1 hour)
From Irkutsk - by car/bus (5 hours) to Khoytogol or Arshan, then on foot or on horseback (2-3 days).
From Slyudyanka - by car / bus (3 hours) to Khoytogol or Arshan, then on foot or on horseback (2-3 days).
From Ulan-Ude - by car / bus (9-10 hours) to Khoytogol or Arshan, then on foot or on horseback (2-3 days).
Formed at the beginning of the Quaternary period, the Shumak field was the result of the tectonic fault of the Tunkinsky Goltsy. The sources of Shumakh themselves are considered the youngest mineral waters on the ground. For Eastern Siberia this is generally unique phenomenon. In addition to mineralization, the Shumak mineral waters are saturated with gases: they contain oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and rare gases. The Shumak springs emerge from the depths in three groups: the first (70-meter) consists of 42 springs with water temperatures from 10°C to 35°C, the 175-meter second group has 50 springs (from 10°C to 35° C), 120-meter third - 16 outlets with temperature (from 28°C to 34°C). The springs themselves are located at an altitude of 1558 m.
These springs have been known since ancient times; according to legend, even during the time of Genghis Khan, their water was supplied to his troops.
So we decided to visit this amazing place. It’s not the first time I’ve gone there myself, but on this trip I played the role of a guide for the first time. Initially, the route was planned for 10 days. Nilova Pustyn - Shumak - Nilova Pustyn. Later, already on Shumak, we decided to go down the river. Kitoy and get off in Arshan. Which increased the duration of the journey to 16 days. A little information - Arshan is a completely civilized spring with sanatoriums and boarding houses. Shumak, in contrast, is a wild and little-known place. At least that’s how it used to be, until commerce got there too. But for now this is a completely wild corner. So, Shumak is the name of the river and valley, where about 100 mineral springs are located in a small area. With different water temperatures, tastes and medicinal properties. The place is quite famous among the local population, but for some reason it is little known to others. Although judging by the geography of those we met, they know about him not only in Russia. The fastest way to get to the springs is (if you do not decide to fly by helicopter) from the Nile Desert through the pass. The route to the springs takes from 2 to 4 days, depending on preparation and free time. So, we traveled from Irkutsk to the Nilova Pustyn by bus. Further our path lay along the Ekhe-Ger River to the foot of the pass. At the first ford we were lucky - the truck dropped off the team until the first winter hut, which was about 3 hours of walking. Cars do not go any further, only on foot or on horseback. The group traveling with us stayed to rest in the winter hut, but we moved on before it got dark. 
The first overnight stay took place in the valley before the pass. It was starting to rain. The tent was secured with stones and we, tired but happy, fell asleep under the beginning of the rain. Day two turned out to be a little cloudy and wet. Well, we are no strangers to this. We prepare breakfast, pack our things and go ahead - today we have to conquer the Shumak Pass, 2760 m high. 
We walk through the valley all day, there is no firewood here, so it is better to go through it in a day or have a burner with you. It was getting dark, and we, being confident that we would have time to both ascend and descend to the lakes where the Shumak River originates, which is on the other side of the pass, set out to climb.
At the top of the pass there is a pile of sacrificial stones - obo, which is dedicated to the spirit of the taiga Khangai, the owner of the area and the patron of animals. Along the trail there are dense thickets of sagandayli, Kuril tea, honeysuckle, and currants. But the time should have been calculated better. The descent from the pass began at 9 pm, which led to a very unusual situation - spending the night right on a rocky slope. As luck would have it, it started raining with fog, visibility dropped to several meters in all directions, we safely strayed from the path... in general - we wanted extreme sports. The smartest thing that came to our minds was to put up a tent on the rocks, and not jump over the boulders and try not to break our necks. And how to put it... here we had to tinker. It's okay to rain and the weather isn't exactly warm, but finding a flat surface on a rocky slope is a thankless task. As a result, for half an hour they simply covered a more or less suitable area with stones, leveled it, and laid everything they could. The result is quite smooth and relatively tolerant in terms of hardness. 
We also managed to get some sleep. And in the morning... in the morning, 10 meters from our tent, a cliff to the lake was discovered... We were really lucky that we didn’t go there... And in the light of day it wasn’t very difficult to find the path. In general, we are on the road again. 
We arrived at the springs on the morning of the 4th day. We managed to almost immediately find a free winter hut, where we lived for 7 days. At the springs there are spontaneously built winter huts, a bathhouse, a radon bath, and, accordingly, the springs themselves, which have become significantly smaller since my previous visit. A tourist complex has appeared with well-equipped houses and a new radon bath, of course everything is paid for. Helicopter communication has been improved, a store has opened where you can buy necessary products, as well as charge your existing equipment. Usually the day looked like this: a walk through the springs, a radon bath, breakfast, a daytime outing to some attraction, again the springs, dinner, and then whatever came to mind. 
The weather was changeable, so we didn’t have time to explore all the surroundings. We visited three places: 1. “Pillars” Natural formation of crumbling rock. But the strangest thing is that although everything around has crumbled, the pillars themselves, for some unknown reason, continue to stand. Next to them is a women's datsan, a place quite revered by the local population, which is of great importance to them - they say it treats infertility, and judging by the stories, quite successfully. 
2. Golden Lake. We pursued two goals - to look at the lake itself and to collect golden root along the way. Unfortunately, they never found the root... either they didn’t look well, or they had already dug it up there. But the lake itself made a strong impression. Mountain, with scalding cold water, falling into the valley beautiful waterfall and surrounded by sharp and high mountains, from a distance reminiscent of the walls of a fortress. 3. Cascades of waterfalls. Just a 15-minute walk from the winter huts is one of the local wonders - giant cascades of waterfalls, the largest of which, according to my estimates, is about 30 meters in height. I didn’t even begin to count how many there were. I just stood and marveled at the extent to which nature can be perfect and skillful. From below it looks like a long ladder of rushing water flowing with high mountains. And as soon as you rise higher and stand on the cliff above the waterfalls, your heart skips a beat. Huge streams of water that made this amazing road in the rock. Sheer walls, raging streams... Admiration and fear mix together, forming a completely different feeling of the power of nature... 
As was said, we decided to leave through Arshan. There were two reasons for this, the first was a rumor that the pass was covered with snow, and the second was “Where should we rush?” And this means descending along the Shumak River to the place where it flows into the river. Kitoy and along Kitoy, 4-5 days to the Fedyushkina River, from which the desired pass is just a stone's throw away. The road was calm, except for the incidents that the only girl in the group, carried away by photographing, went down the wrong path, and we happily looked for her all day. As it turned out later, for half of that day, she was waiting for us at the confluence of two paths in front of a river, about 20 kilometers from the place of her disappearance. At the confluence of Fedyushkina and Kitoy, on the opposite side of the river, there is a tour. a base and a store, where we decided to replenish our quickly melting provisions. The process of crossing the river is as follows: On the other bank there is a sad little man sitting in a boat; if you run along the bank and wave your arms, he swims across the river and, for a fee worthy of Charon, transports you to the other side. When climbing to the Arshan pass, a spontaneous incident arose. It was at that moment when we were cheerfully climbing it that a good 8-magnitude earthquake occurred on Baikal. For the first time I saw a real wave rolling along the ground. It shook, my friend and I ended up on the ground, and the third comrade was found with all his limbs wrapped around the tree trunk. After the pass, descent along Kyngarga and, finally, civilization. One more night and we're home. And so this fascinating journey to the Valley of 100 Springs ended. And, although now there is a constant helicopter connection, comfortable houses and other delights of civilization, such wild tourism still evokes in me much more sensations, feelings and thoughts.