Where is the city of Fes. Fes, Moroko - what to see: attractions, Medina, reviews of tourists, photos of the city

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Fez (Fez) - second largest city in Morocco after Casablanca. Medina of Fez (historic center) is one of the largest urban areas in the world without vehicles. The University of Fez El-Karaouine was founded in 859 and has been in continuous operation ever since. In general, there are a lot of old things in Fez, you understand.

The origin of the name "Fes" is not exactly clear.. Some people think it's in honor of the mountains Fazaz standing nearby. Others - that the founder of the city of Idris the First in 789 looked at the pickaxe ( Fa's in Arabic) and decided that for some reason the city should be built in the form of it. How the kailo fell into the hands of the ruler, the legends do not tell. There is also mysticism: an old Christian monk told Idris that in these places once a thousand years ago there was a city Sef, and it would be nice to found a city here. He rearranged the letters in places, they say, Idris himself, deciding that it was bad manners to invent other letters. The Berbers offer their own version: Fez came from “ isaffen”, plural of “ asif”, which means “river” in Berber.

The most true version says that Fez was originally built on two banks of the river at once as two cities (it was united much later). AND “face” means nothing more than “right bank”. The city on the left bank was called, by the way, not “left bank”, but “ Al Alia”, so the version is also not flawless.

After its foundation, Fez was populated by all and sundry: Muslims from all over North Africa, Moriscos (Spanish Muslims in exile), as well as Jews who had a separate quarter at their disposal. At the end of the 12th century, 200,000 people lived here - the most Big city planets at that time. Under the Almoravids, the title of capital slipped away from Fez to Marrakech, but the city authorities did not lose heart and made Fez the scientific and religious center of the country. Thanks to this, Fez was not empty, and a little later, under the Marinids, the capital moved to him again.

In the 16th century, the Ottoman conquest happened in Morocco, and part of the territories became a vassal of the Ottoman Empire. Fes was one of them. The capital has moved - where? - that's right, in Marrakech. But the inhabitants of the city were not at a loss again, they made Fes the main trading point of North-West Africa. Until the 19th century, it was the only city in the world where fez was made.- Arab headdresses, so that the whole Arab world came here for shopping.

Later, Fez again became the capital of Morocco, this time until 1912, when the country was partitioned between France and Spain. But after 1912, the city began to experience not the best period: the best heads left for the capital Rabat, and in general, the city began to empty, and the economy to fall.

Fes is divided into three parts: Fes-el-Bali (old city), Fes-Jdid ( new town- well, like new, founded in 1276) and Ville Nouvel (a completely new city founded by the French). Old town - a huge medieval space with a bunch of streets and dead ends, around which even the wall was not destroyed. You can ride here only on that which does not have an engine, so basically everyone moves on foot. And Ville Nouvel is a swarming office center, lovers of the exotic can not go there.

Exactly Fez is home to the legendary tannery district of Shuar, where the skin is washed and dyed in stone vats in the open air for the second millennium in a row. The Internet is full of photos with videos, so if you still don't know anything about it, be sure to check it out.

Different parts of the world are beautiful in their own way. To recharge with incendiary rhythms of flamenco and exciting bullfights, tourists go to Spain, to relax in the corners of pristine nature - to the island of Bali, for active shopping and getting to know the latest digital technologies - to Tokyo and New York, and for extreme sports and excursions to snow-covered peaks - to the ski resorts of Switzerland and Austria. For those who admire the ancient oriental culture, medieval mosques and unique Islamic culture, the city of Fes is an ideal place to relax. about the climate and geographical location city, the main attractions - more in the article, as well as an overview of the best hotels, restaurants and places for shopping.

Fez - Explore the Cultural Capital of Morocco

The city of Fes is one of the most unique places on earth. This ancient part of Morocco is one of the country's imperial cities, which combined 3 eras at once (the reign of 3 caliphs), and besides, it is the first civilized city in the Arab countries. The mixing of eras is reflected not only in the architecture of temples and mosques, but also in the uniqueness and originality of the culture of Fes as a whole. Royal and Jewish cemeteries, the remains of imperial chambers, intricate medinas, narrow streets and merchants of spices and fabrics - getting into Fez, it’s like returning back to the 8th century, the historical point of the city’s birth.

Geographical position

Fez covers an area of ​​20,000 sq. kilometers: it is located 200 kilometers from Rabat - the modern capital of Morocco. The Kingdom of Morocco is located in southwest Africa and has access to the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The location of Fes is also very good - in the north-east of the country, at the intersection of paths leading to the west. Not far from Fez flows the Cebu River, and it was its tributary that gave the city its modern name.

Fes Map

The proximity of the Atlas Mountains explains the almost complete absence of reservoirs of natural origin. The flora mainly consists of junipers, evergreen oaks, dwarf palms and cedars. Geographically, the city is divided into three main districts - El Bali (historical center), Jid (city blocks) and New Fes - the administrative part. The latter area has a European look and architecture, as it was designed by the French administration that dominated Morocco in 1912.

Did you know? The narrow streets of El Bali are included in the UNESCO heritage as a monument of medieval Islamic architecture and construction.

Today in this oldest Moroccan city, the pearl of the Arab world, there are more than 950 thousand inhabitants. Fes is multinational: representatives of the Arab peoples, Jews, Europeans and Africans mixed here.

A bit of history

The historical branch of the city dates back to 789, when Moulay Idris I wanted to build a city for himself on the right side of the river Fez. In honor of this, the subjects presented him with a hoe carved from pure gold and silver. With this hoe, the Sultan personally outlined the boundaries of the future city, and the city itself was called "Fes", which means "wooden hoe". According to another version, the name of the city comes from the word "fas", which means "river" in Berber. Another theory of the origin of the name of the city says: due to the fact that the city is built in the form of a pickaxe, it was called Fes (“Fa's” from ancient Arabic means “pick”).

At the beginning of the 9th century, the son of the Sultan, Idris II, built a fortified Royal residence, a mosque and a market on the opposite bank - such a left-bank settlement was called Al-Aliya. The first inhabitants of the ancient Muslim Fes, built by Idris I, were, oddly enough, Christian refugees who were expelled from Andalusia and Cordoba, but Muslims lived on the left side, in Al-Alia.

A certain confrontation arose between the inhabitants of opposite shores and religions, which sowed enmity and discord. However, the Muslim part of the city, located on the left bank, developed more actively, as it had direct access to the sea - this allowed Al-Aliya to gain strong trade relations with neighboring countries and develop better economically. Subsequently, in the XI century, Sultan Yusuf ibn Tashif united the two parts of the city, giving them a common name, and made the center of the Kairouan Mosque on the left bank - this ends the first era of the existence of Fez.

The second historical era of the city was marked by the Ottoman conquest of the kingdom of Morocco in the 16th century - now Fez has become a subject of the Ottoman Empire. The favorable location of the city led to the fact that the ancient Fez became an important commercial and economic center of North-West Africa. It is noteworthy that until the end of the 19th century, Fes was the only city in the world where fezzes (Arab headdresses) were made - therefore, the bulk of the Muslim world flocked here for shopping. Later, the city became the capital of the Ottoman state, being it until the beginning of the 20th century.

The third era is the loss by the city of the status of the capital of Morocco in 1912, when, according to the Treaty of Fez, the kingdom was divided between Spain and France. At the same time, the city became the center of the struggle of the Moroccan inhabitants for their independence and the return of lost rights and freedoms.

In the middle of the 20th century (in 1956), when the Kingdom of Morocco again became an independent state, Fez received rapid development - new sleeping areas were built and settled, economic relations with neighboring countries were strengthened, and an internal market was formed. It was at this time that the most important administrative buildings appeared, and on central squares parks were laid out and fountains erected. Despite the active development, the city managed to preserve the spirit of history and authentic culture - there are no advertising posters and billboards on the streets, and the absence of high-rise buildings and modern office buildings keeps the city in its almost original form.

How to get there

Unfortunately, getting to Fes is not entirely easy - the city supports direct flights with only a few countries. So, from Russia and Ukraine, you should first get to Casablanca (western part of Morocco), and then cross over to Fes by land transport. The cost of the Kiev-Casablanca flight starts from $150, from Moscow the ticket price increases - from $210.

You can get from Casablanca both by taxi (about 450 dirhams) and by train (about 80 dirhams). But the residents of London, Milan, Pisa, Marseille, Dusseldorf and Bologna were more fortunate - these cities have direct flights to the Fes-Sais airport. The airport is located 15 kilometers from the city itself, so even if you are flying on a direct flight, you should hire a taxi (about 200 dirhams) or take a train to Fes (about 45 dirhams).

Important! Throughout the Fess medina, any motorized vehicles are prohibited - therefore, to walk along the ancient streets, you need to stock up on a bicycle, rent a donkey or use the services of a porter.

Climate and weather by months

Fez has a Mediterranean climate - summers are extremely hot and dry, while winters are, on the contrary, relatively cool and humid. The proximity of the Atlas mountain ranges is of great importance for the climate - hence the temperature fluctuations in the daytime and at night and the characteristic seasonality of the climate. Thus, throughout the summer months, the temperature is consistently high - + 27–29 ° С. Sometimes, on particularly hot days, the temperature in the shade reaches +45°C - therefore, it is better to refrain from excursions and walks around the city in the summer. The most optimal time to visit Fes is autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May): the sun is not so scorching, the air is quite humid, and the daytime temperature does not exceed +23–26°C. In winter, rain can interfere with rest: out of 90 winter days, precipitation can fall for at least 60 days. The average air temperature in winter is +10–13°C.

Main attractions

Fes can be called a museum city: ancient mosques, architectural monuments of the Berber dynasty and ancient buildings are at every step. All three ancient districts of the city keep the spirit of the era and are the religious pearl of the kingdom.

1. The most beautiful palace XIV century, which is an example of Islamic culture. The palace is decorated with incredibly beautiful carvings, frescoes with Arabic calligraphy, a huge water clock and a majestic minaret that serves as a Muslim religious school.
   
   
2. Built in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, the daughter of a wealthy merchant. Initially, Al-Karaouin was a mosque that could accommodate up to 20 thousand believers (in the Middle Ages it was the largest mosque in North Africa). Today, this university is the spiritual and educational core not only of Morocco, but of the entire Islamic world.
   
   
3. Tomb of Idris II. You can visit the remains of the son of the founder of the city by visiting Al-Karaouin - it is on the territory of the university that the famous Caliph rests.
4. The famous Moorish-style white gate with a blue tint, decorated with intricate Arabic ornaments. Through them you can get to the medina, the ancient center of the city. The gate was installed in 1912 solely as a decorative element, and not as a defensive fortification (unlike all other gates in Fez).
   
   
5. This architectural complex covers an area of ​​more than 80 hectares and consists of ancient mosques, madrasahs, schools of Koranic study and a park with gardens. The palace was built in the XIV century, however, despite such an impressive date, it still functions as intended: the back of the palace is occupied by the current king of Morocco. The Royal Palace is one of the most ancient historical treasures of Fes.
   
   
6. A place where the inhabitants still use the dyeing and processing of leather in ancient ways - tamping, drying, stretching and painting by hand with natural dyes. This use of ancient technologies has not stopped in this quarter for 1000 years, which makes Shuar in its own way a unique place on the globe. The best time to visit the tanners' quarter is early in the morning: the vats of dyes are not yet very hot under the scorching sun, and the fumes of paint are not so suffocating. Some odor-sensitive tourists take mint or lemon with them to counter the smell of paint hovering over this ancient quarter. Here you can also buy unique handmade leather souvenirs.
   
   
7. This ancient historical monument is the bedchamber of the Meridin dynasty, ruling in Morocco since the 12th century. The tombs are located in the center of the old part of the city, although Meridina were previously buried outside the city walls. Despite the fact that today only a few fragments and a few columns of the former magnificent bedchamber remain from the tombs, such sacred place still attracts crowds of tourists.
   
   
8. One of the most beautiful parts of the Old City. Here is the famous Nejari Fountain, near which there is a bazaar of the same name - the famous kingdom of cabinetmakers. The combination of a riot of greenery, the aroma of sold spices and the smell of fresh mahogany make this square one of the most visited places in the city.
   
   
9. It is located in the Dar Batha Palace. In the exhibition halls of this museum, you can admire expensive ancient carpets, ceramics, bronze and gold items, and ancient art books. In addition, concerts of ancient Andalusian music are held in the palace in late spring and early autumn.
   
   
10. A three-story building that housed wood merchants. Today it works as a Museum of Wood Products - household items, musical instruments, clothing and other wood products are presented here in a wide range. You can appreciate the art of cabinetmakers and buy a memorable souvenir right here, in Caravan el-Najarin.
    
    

Of course, this list does not fully cover all the memorable places and sights of Fes: the House with an old clock, the Army Museum, the Jewish cemetery and many others - there are a lot of places in the city that really breathe ancient Muslim history.

Did you know? Al-Qaraween University is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as "the world's oldest and continuously operating institution of higher education."

What else can a tourist do

Of course, Fez is not only the intricate labyrinths of medinas, ancient fortresses and merchants of spices, fabrics and mahogany products. Despite the originality and authenticity of the city, the spirit of modernity also seeps into it - this is expressed in fine restaurants, comfortable hotels and entertainment.

Leisure

The picturesque gardens and numerous parks of Fes suggest not only a calm measured walk - many of them are equipped with modern attractions, trampolines, rope parks for children and artificial ponds where you can ride a small boat or catamaran. Sailing, fishing, even boat trips on the river - it's all possible in Fes. One of the popular types of recreation here is visiting SPA and Turkish baths.

Tennis can be called a local sport: for example, the Princess Lalla Meriem Grand Prix tournament is held here every year, in which the most titled tennis players take part. For lovers of more thrills, there are excursions to the dunes and mountain peaks, where you can ride a camel, donkey or horse.

Night life

Despite strict Muslim customs, night life in Fez exists - about 5-7 clubs function on the territory of the city, designed, however, more for tourists and Europeans. Local bars and restaurants are often open until the early hours of the morning, and some even offer live music. You can not be afraid to walk around Fes at night: the city's police are the most stringent on the African continent, so it is just as safe here at night as in the daytime.

Where to stay

Fes is a relatively inexpensive city, and accommodation here can be found for almost every budget and taste: from a modest stay in budget guesthouses and hostels for 30 dirhams per night to a comfortable weekend in luxurious riads for 600 dirhams. It is noteworthy that most tourists prefer to stay in hostels or hotels with a Moroccan design, while traditional European-style hotels are less visited.

Hostels

The hostel is the most popular accommodation option in the world. It is convenient for its low price, quick check-in and the ability to live with a whole group in one room.

Below is a list of the most popular hostels in Fes:

1. Located near the Army Museum and the Quran School. All hostel rooms have a private terrace overlooking the mountains, and some offer a gorgeous view of the old part of the city. The hostel offers free Wi-Fi, and breakfast is served every morning in the living room for all guests.
   
2. Great hostel that provides an airport shuttle service. Located 10 minutes walk from the Open Air Museum and the Koran School. The design of the hostel is made in the Moroccan style, and all rooms are equipped with modern appliances and comfortable furniture. It offers free parking, free Wi-Fi and free continental breakfast.
   
3. In addition to a free transfer from and to the airport, the hostel has its own restaurant, cozy terraces overlooking the city, a well-equipped playground. The hostel is pet friendly. Located near the Open Air Museum.
   
4. Located next to the Quran school and tannery. In addition to free parking and an airport shuttle, the hostel provides currency exchange services - it has its own exchange office.
   

Hotels

There are about 30 hotels on the territory of the city - among them there are both five-star, luxury, and four- and three-star hotels, where even a tourist with a limited budget can afford to relax:

Despite the variety of hotels and inns, riads are still more popular with tourists - ancient dwellings with beautiful gardens and rich decoration, which are converted into apartments. The cost of rest in riads starts from 200 dirhams per day.

Important! The streets of the medina of Fes have more than 6,000 thousand nooks and crannies - it is very easy to get lost in this labyrinth. In order to avoid the danger of getting lost, use the services of a guide or guide - you can hire such guides for a nominal fee in local markets.

Urban transport system and car rental

Moving around Fez is carried out with the help of land transport: trains, buses and taxis. Buses do not run regularly, there are no clearly marked places to stop: as a rule, where a crowd of residents gathers, the bus stops. At the same time, in the old part of the city, the medina, movement is possible only on bicycles, donkeys or scooters. However, car rental is possible, but you can only drive it in the new part of the city or outside Fes. The car rental price is low - from 60 dirhams per day, but free parking in Fes is hard to find. The easiest way is to rent a bicycle: for only 15 dirhams you can get an excellent vehicle, which will be convenient to move both along the wide road and along the narrow winding streets.

Where to eat tasty and inexpensive

The cuisine of Fes is considered the best in Morocco - and no wonder, because sweet and savory dishes, snacks, fresh drinks and aromatic spices (coriander, cumin, red pepper and many others) are sold here on every corner. The main delicacy is fruit marshmallow, to which almonds, prunes and dried apricots are added. Tajine with lamb, duck with nuts and raisins, as well as pies with pigeon meat are considered to be some of the original local dishes.

Mint tea or fruit juice is sold as a soft drink. It is noteworthy that, although the kingdom of Morocco produces excellent wine for export, Muslim doctrine prohibits the use of this alcoholic beverage. Therefore, wine is only served in small quantities in some restaurants. The most popular eating places among tourists are numerous cozy cafes, as well as gastronomic markets where you can try the goods directly from the stall.

However, there are also gourmet restaurants in the city, namely:

Italian cuisine and pizzerias:

Moroccan cuisine:

Mediterranean Kitchen:

Thai cuisine:

Fes' signature culinary card is fresh bread with spices and herbs, most often sold by street vendors. Also in the city there is a whole network of city bakeries where you can have a cup of tea with a fresh, delicious-smelling sweet pie.

Did you know? The Moroccan dirharm is the second most stable currency in the world against the US dollar.

For shopping lovers

The main souvenir of Fez is a leather product. Only here you can buy a hand-made leather item, an unusual musical instrument or jewelry. The best place to stock up on leather goods is in the Shuar tannery quarter: here you can see with your own eyes how leather souvenirs are made, and even take part in their creation. Moroccan slippers (grandmothers), as well as fezzes, are considered authentic goods - they are sold here in all local markets. It is worth visiting jewelry shops and asking the price of silver and copper products, as well as ceramic dishes and carpets. As a gastronomic souvenir, a set of first-class spices bought at the El-Attarin bazaar, and dried bunches of medicinal herbs (sold at the medicinal plants bazaar) can serve as a gastronomic souvenir.

Of course, in addition to street vendors and oriental bazaars, Fes also has modern shops with excellent quality goods, clothes, toys and household items. However, there is no unique flavor in such shopping centers, so you can buy a souvenir that matches the style of the city only in the old markets of the city.

Fes Market

Fez is a centuries-old amazing city, an example of the Muslim Medieval era, which has preserved historical monuments and sights almost in its original form. At first glance, this is an absolutely outdated city, but we appreciate Fez for the fact that in the era of progressive digital technologies it was able to preserve its unique culture, flavor and atmosphere.

Fes is not only the largest center of religion, culture and education in the country, but also the oldest of the four imperial cities (three more - Meknes, Marrakech, Rabat). Despite its centuries-old history, this amazing city has remained a true example of the Muslim Middle Ages, where almost nothing has changed. Its winding streets still look like labyrinths, the same families live in the old quarters from century to century, the street markets invariably sell granny slippers and Berber carpets, and city tanners still process leather according to old traditional technologies that are passed down from generation to generation. This unique city, bright and resonant, is a real monument to ancient times, where travelers from all over the world aspire every year.

Climate and weather

Fez is located in the Mediterranean climate zone, due to which summers are very hot and dry, and winters are quite cool and humid. It is worth noting that the weather in this region is affected by the proximity of the Atlas Mountains, and therefore it is characterized by differences in day and night temperatures, as well as pronounced seasonality. In summer, the average daytime temperature here is about +26°C, although there were cases when the air warmed up to +45 °С and higher. In winter, it often rains, and the thermometer fluctuates at the mark +12°C.

The most favorable time for traveling to Fes is the beginning of summer (May - June).

Nature

Fez is located in the northeast of the country, in the northern foothills of the Atlas Mountains. There are no reservoirs of natural origin in the city and its environs, and the vegetation is mainly represented by junipers, evergreen oaks, dwarf palms and cedars.

sights

Fez, which is considered to be the real pearl of Arab culture, as well as the cultural and religious center of Morocco, consists of three separate areas. The most notable of these is Fes el Bali. This medieval city, with its intricate labyrinths of narrow streets and many mosques, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. District Fes el Jdid replete with ancient monuments of the Marinid era, and New Fez was built in accordance with modern architectural canons.

Of the numerous architectural monuments, one of the most interesting is Al Qaraween University(859), which became a real spiritual and educational center of the Islamic world. Another attraction of Fes, without a doubt, was the palace Bou Inania Madrasah with its own minaret, performing the functions of a Muslim religious school. On the facade of this complex there is a unique example of a water clock, which invariably delights the guests of the city. No less remarkable are the blue and white gates Bab-Boo-Jelud with a spectacular ornament, the mausoleum of the Sultan Moulay Idris II with sacred artifacts and the Royal Palace, within the walls of which the Museum of Art operates.

In addition, the unique place of Fez is the old Quarter of Tanners. Shuara, where you can observe the process of leather production using unique ancient technologies (tamping, drying, dyeing).

Nutrition

Fessian cuisine is considered to be the best in the country, so it is not surprising that you can see a small national restaurant or snack bar literally on every corner in the city. Local chefs are famous for the fact that very often they combine sweet and savory foods in one dish, and also use fruits instead of vegetables. In addition, almost all dishes are generously flavored with a variety of spices and seasonings (cumin, cinnamon, coriander, sweet or hot peppers, etc.).

The main treat of Fez is the so-called pastila - puff pastries with pigeon meat, almonds and sugar. No less original and tasty dishes, which are most common here, are meat tagine with quince, lamb with prunes and dried apricots, and duck with nuts and raisins. An integral part of any Moroccan meal is delicious fresh bread served with cumin and salt. Well, as a dessert, seasonal fruits or sweet pies with honey, nuts, cinnamon and sesame seeds are usually served. Wash down all these delicacies most often with sweet mint tea or fresh juices and cocktails with almonds and avocados. It is worth noting that, despite the fact that Morocco produces excellent wines, the Muslim religion prohibits the use of alcohol, so they are rarely served in national restaurants.

Residence

In Fes, the most popular among tourists are "riads" - old houses with picturesque gardens and luxurious decoration, which are converted into hotels. Most often they consist of 5-6 small but very comfortable rooms, for example, Riad Said(from $113) or Riad Rcif(from $40).

Of course, in this ancient city There are also many traditional hotels. Modern and luxurious hotels are concentrated directly in New Fez: Palais Faraj Suites & Spa, Les Merinides, Ramada Fes and others. Well, low-price accommodation options, namely hostels (from $ 8) and hotels 1-2 * (from $ 23), are located in the historical part of the city.

Entertainment and recreation

Despite the fact that Fes is a calm and rather old-fashioned city, here any tourist can easily find an interesting pastime. For example, here you can play golf (there is a magnificent field here) or go horseback riding. You can go on a multi-day horse trek with stops in Volubilis and Meknes. Tennis is no less popular in the city. So, every year the Princess Lalla Meriem Grand Prix tournament is held here, in which the most famous tennis players participate.

Fez is also famous for its numerous festivals and celebrations, of which the most popular are the Festival of Sacred Music, the Cherry Fair and the Jazz Festival in Riads. As for nightlife, there are clubs and bars only in the territories of large hotels. In addition, many hotels offer all kinds of short-term courses in Fes cuisine, pottery, calligraphy and Arab-Andalusian music.

Well, for those who want not only to relax, but also to improve their health, there are many hammams and spas in Fes. The city also has a luxurious thermal center. "Moulay Yacoub" with warm healing springs.

Purchases

As in any Moroccan city, Fez has a lot of noisy and colorful markets where you can buy all kinds of souvenirs and local delicacies. The largest number of such markets is concentrated in the old district, which is famous for its special oriental flavor. First of all, you should pay attention to fez hats, traditional grandmother slippers, tajines, as well as jewelry and fabrics. In addition, Fes has many interesting specialty markets, such as the Spice Bazaar El Attarin, Fish and salt market, market of medicinal plants Ash-Shabin etc.

However, the main product of Fes, of course, are leather goods, which are sold in the famous tannery quarter. Leather has been made in the city for a very long time, and it is processed according to old recipes, without the use of alkalis and acids, so residents of the whole country flock here for high-quality and original bags, jackets and accessories.

In addition to markets and bazaars in Fez, of course, there are large shopping centers and supermarkets where you can buy literally everything, but there is no unique oriental atmosphere there. It is worth saying that there is no generally accepted schedule for opening and closing stores in Fes, so most of them work according to an individual schedule. Well, the markets and bazaars here are open almost the entire daylight hours.

Transport

In Fez, public transport is represented by city buses, the fare for which is approximately $ 0.3. It is worth noting that buses do not have a clear schedule, and you can find out their route only from local residents. In addition, bus stops are often not marked, so you can understand where exactly the bus should stop by the crowd of people gathered near the road.

Taxis in Fes are mostly small cars that are designed for three people. They usually do not have a fixed fare, so the price must be negotiated in advance. “Large” taxis are also popular here, which are analogous to fixed-route taxis. There are also taxis with meters that are familiar to us in the city, however, there are not very many of them.

Connection

To call within the country or abroad, it is most convenient to use mobile communications, which in Morocco work in the standard GSM 900. It is carried out through three mobile operators: Maroc Telecom, Meditel and INWI. Roaming within the country is available to subscribers of all major foreign operators. Also, guests of the city are offered local prepaid SIM cards (about $ 22). Prices and tariffs can be found directly in the branded salons of the city.

An alternative to mobile phones are street machines that work with phone cards ( Maroc Telecom) or coins. Cards are sold in almost all major stores and post offices, as well as at gas stations.

Internet access is provided in most hotels, and most often it is already included in the room price. In addition, there are several dozen Internet cafes in Fes, where the cost of an hour session on the network is no more than $ 1. There is no GPRS roaming throughout Morocco.

Safety

In Fez, tourists are first of all advised to be extremely careful when handling local currency. Very often, sellers imitate the absence of banknotes for change, and sometimes they can slip a non-existent banknote at all ( "Berber dichrem").

You should be wary of all kinds of scammers and beggars: in no case should you accept any services from strangers. Also, in order not to become a victim of pickpockets, in public places you need to carefully monitor your personal belongings.

Business climate

Fez is not only a major cultural and historical heart of Morocco, but also a fairly significant commercial and industrial center of the country. The city's economy is based on the textile and food industries, as well as woodworking. In addition, Fez is the main supplier of leather in the country. In the New Fez area, there are many branches of the country's largest banks and state companies, as well as a large number of buildings that are designed for congresses and business meetings.

The property

Recently, there has been an increased interest in Fez real estate not only among Moroccans, but also among foreign investors. One of the main reasons for this trend is the fact that prices in the local real estate market remain stable and quite reasonable, despite the cultural and historical uniqueness of the city.

So, for example, the cost of a small house without repair here is about $40,000, and for a house with three bedrooms and in excellent condition, they will ask about $100,000. Larger properties, including commercial buildings, are worth at least $200,000.

A trip to Fez is recommended to coincide with the International Festival of Sacred Music, which takes place in early June. During this massive event, the city fills with musicians representing religious communities from the Middle East, the West and Asia. Throughout the festival week, numerous concerts and performances take place here, during which you can listen to the trance-inducing music of the Berbers, the sacred music of the Celts, Arab-Andalusian music and the sacred hymns of Hindustan, as well as see the dances of the Sufi dervishes from Turkey.

El Maghreb, the country of the setting sun, or simply not in vain is called the fabulous Middle Ages. I ended up in this country by chance only on the second attempt. The first one, when all the tickets were already bought, the hostels were booked, and I had already explored Morocco in my thoughts, was crowned with total changes. And exactly a year later I tried my luck again and everything worked out.

By plane

From the capital cities of Russia (Peter,) there are no direct flights to Fez. And with transfers in Europe, Iberia, Vueling, Arab Airlines, as well as Moldovan Airlines and even “ Ural Airlines". As a rule, there are several transfers, and all of them are with large connections. The price may be relatively small, around 250 EUR one way, but how much time can be spent just waiting?

Therefore, in this case, it is best to divide the trip from Russia to Morocco into two parts:

• fly to Europe
• to get from the cities of Europe to Fes.

Morocco has the best transport links with Spain, close in distance and in spirit. And low-cost airlines very often fly to Spain from St. Petersburg and Moscow, especially to the one popular with Russians. In connection with all this, and plus the fact that it is very attractive not only as a transfer point, it turns out that flying to Fes through Spain is an ideal option.

So, for example, from Russia to Barcelona you can make a flight in 4 hours for 150 EUR one way with Vueling or Iberia. And from the capital of Catalonia to Fes, it’s really possible to fly for 50 EUR with the most budgetary European airline Ryanair. And on the way you will spend about two hours, if not less.

There is an excellent site Vandrouki, which publishes all the current promotions and offers for moving around the world, and at the same time comes up with ways to travel almost for free. Very interesting proposals “how to get to Morocco” often flicker there. For example, on the May holidays of 2017, you can fly from via to Morocco for just some 30 EUR. Is it a joke? It's just that Ryanair has unrealistically cheap tickets to such destinations. It remains only to get to Tallinn and open the Schengen, if it is not there yet.

On the same Vandrouki, promotions of flights to Barcelona through the Pobeda airline are sometimes published. By the way, if you only make transplants in Spain, then no Schengen visa is required. And you can still choose the most convenient and economical flights.

How to get from Fes airport to the city

Arriving in Fes, first you find yourself at the airport. The Fes airport is tiny compared to the giant ones in Europe, but nevertheless it does a pretty good job of being the only airport in the fairly populated and popular Fes. There are points at the airport where you can exchange dollars or euros for local dirhams. Usually the exchange rate at airports is higher than in exchange offices in the city center, but to get to the city itself, you will definitely need money, which means change, but only a small amount.

There are two ways to get to the center from the airport:

1. by bus number 16 for 3 EUR per person, but the bus does not have an exact timetable;
2. by taxi is fast, fun and not expensive, namely for the same 3 EUR per person.

Usually, at the bus stop, which is located across the road from the airport itself, only foreigners, who are not yet accustomed to the slowness of the country, stand patiently and wait for at least some bus. So we waited for the bus for about half an hour, he did not appear, but we were surrounded by taxi drivers and violently invited to go with them. Then we, and there were two of us, teamed up with the same travelers, bargained with the driver for the price of the bus fare and drove together and cheerfully to the Medina.

By train

Railway communication in Morocco is quite developed. Fes can be reached by train from major cities such as Marrakech, and.

The train from Marrakesh to Fez takes 7 hours, from Tangier - 5 hours, and from Casablanca - 4. They say that Moroccan trains are divided into two classes:

1. certain seat on the ticket,
2. any free space.

In terms of cost, it all depends on the class, but the prices for the second class are approximately as follows:

• from Marrakesh for 20 EUR,
• from Casablanca for about 15 EUR,
• from Tangier for only 10 EUR.

The first class will cost 5-10 EUR more. Children under 4 years old can ride the train for free, and children under 12 years old receive discounts.

The exact prices and timetables of trains can be found on the website of the Moroccan railway ONCF, however, you cannot buy or book tickets outside of Morocco, this can only be done upon arrival at the station. But trains run frequently and there are no difficulties with the number of tickets.

Fes station is very beautiful, and you can get from it to the city center by taxi parked at the exit.

We have not been able to try the trains in our entire trip to Morocco, but some travelers we meet on our way used them and were very pleased with the comfort and speed.

By bus

Buses are perhaps the most budgetary, and therefore the most popular way to travel around the country. The Moroccans got these same buses for unsuitability in Spain. But in fact, ALSA buses in Spain and Morocco are completely indistinguishable. Well, yes, those in Morocco look a little more worn, but in general they drive with a bang, the seats recline, and the air conditioners work properly.

Morocco's main bus companies are CTM and SupraTours. Each carrier has its own website where you can specify the direction and bus schedule. To Fez, for example, from Tangier, the bus will take about 6 hours for 11 EUR. From Marrakech - 9 hours for 17 EUR. From Casablanca - 5 hours for 9 EUR. In addition to the cost of the ticket, cunning Moroccans can still charge an additional fee for placing luggage in the luggage compartment. Therefore, many people tamp their luggage under the seat, under their feet, over their heads, and even ride in an embrace.

Bus tickets can be bought at a small box office at the bus station. Each company has its own box office. It is always best to purchase tickets in advance. Buses run at intervals of up to two hours, but are almost always crowded. Still the most popular transport in Morocco.

An alternative to comfortable tourist bus companies are local, very worn, garbage-filled and jam-packed buses of an unknown carrier that stop in every village, which are easy to catch with a wave of the hand and which cost almost half the price of a regular bus.

This option is of course for the experienced. We decided that we were seasoned and so we tried. In a word, delight. It is probably impossible to get to know the country even closer after such a close four-hour Moroccan encirclement.

Fes seems to have two bus stations. One right next to the Medina, five minutes from the main entrance to the old part of the city. And the second one is on the edge of the city. From the first it is quite possible to get there on foot, and from the second - by taxi for about 2 EUR.

By car

The roads in Morocco are very good. Moving around the country by car is a great idea, especially if you are traveling with a large friendly family.

You can easily rent a car by booking it in advance on the website of any European company you like, whose car rental is also common in Morocco, or by solving this issue upon arrival in the country. On the spot, you can often negotiate with the Moroccans to reduce the price of rent, but this is how lucky. Roads throughout the country are both paid and free. And you can get behind the wheel, barely descending from the gangway or stepping off the deck, and head towards Fez. The car rental system in Morocco works quickly.

There are a lot of people traveling by car. We did not rent a car, but we still managed to evaluate the roads.

By ferry

Alas, it will not work by ferry to Fez itself, but to the nearby Moroccan cities - completely.

Ferries operate from Barcelona and from the southern cities of Spain. It will take a whole day to get from Barcelona to any Moroccan port city, and a one-way ticket will cost approximately 100 EUR. Therefore, if you sail by ferry, then it is better from such sunny cities as Motril, Algeciras or. You can also get to the Spanish autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla, located in northern Africa, surrounded by the sea and Morocco, and from there, crossing the border, go to Fes.

The fastest and cheapest way is from Algeciras or Tarifa to Moroccan. The journey will take only about an hour, and the cost of one ticket will be within 25 EUR. Ferries run 8-10 times a day. Other directions will be more time-consuming and will increase significantly in cost.

There are several ferry companies, but there is also a great site Direct Ferries with the best deals. In the port, you can also purchase these same tickets if this type of trip was not planned in advance. However, a minute before the departure of the ferry tickets may not be available. Although ferries run frequently, there are always quite a lot of people who want to.

We got to Fez by plane, and left Morocco by ferry towards Algeciras. And to cross the sea border, watching how one incredibly interesting piece of the Earth moves away and another equally interesting land approaches, is very, very cool. There is an incredible sense of freedom.

Clue:

Fes - time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 2

Kazan 2

Samara 3

Yekaterinburg 4

Novosibirsk 6

Vladivostok 9

When is the season. When is the best time to go

Fez is good at any time of the year. There is a positive temperature all year round, and only 50 km from the city are the ever-snowy peaks of the Atlas Mountains, and the ocean is within easy reach. If you go to Fes, then it would be nice to look into other interesting Moroccan places. If you go in the summer or early autumn, then you definitely need to swim in the warm Atlantic. And if at the end of autumn and before the beginning of spring, then conquer the Atlas Mountains. As such, the tourist season is considered the period from April to October, as well as new year holidays. But even outside this season, Morocco, including Fes itself, remains very attractive. But it is worth remembering that the height of summer can seem too hot, and in winter it is surprisingly cold at night. It is also very important that during the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the lunar calendar), you probably should not come to Morocco, because with mandatory Muslim bans, the country can give the wrong impression.

The Moroccan tagine (traditional dish) is always in season, which is already something. So you need to go to Fes at the call of your heart.

Fes in summer

The temperature in Fes throughout the summer exceeds +30 degrees during the day, and drops to +17 degrees at night. Since Fez is not surrounded by sea or ocean, the summer in the city is very dry, but aggressive. At this time of the year it is better to be closer to the water, and you can only visit Fez for a couple of days to fall in love with this imperial city, and later return to it more than once.

Fez in autumn

At the beginning of autumn, the weather is not much different from summer. By the middle of this season, the temperature drops to +25 degrees, and in November it is already around +17 degrees. The scorching sun subsides, and the stuffiness disappears and it's time to get acquainted with Fez.

Fez in spring

In spring, the air temperature in Fez rises from +15 to +25 degrees during the day, and at night it stays within +10. This is a very favorable season for traveling in Fes. Especially in April - early May, when flowering begins and the city turns into a huge orange garden.

Fes in winter

The air temperature in winter in Fez varies from +10 to +15 degrees during the day and a maximum of +5 degrees at night, but the nights are very cold, given that heating in Morocco is not as well thought out as in Russia.

During the day it is quite possible to walk in a dress, sneakers and a light jacket, but for the evening you need to be prepared and have warm clothes with you. During the day, the sun usually shines and warms, but there are also strong winds and light rains.

There are quite a lot of tourists in Fes during the New Year holidays, and south of the city among the Atlas Mountains there are many ski resorts so relevant in the winter season.

Fes - monthly weather

Clue:

Fes - monthly weather

Districts. Where is the best place to live

Fez is relatively small, and all the must sees are concentrated in the old part of the city - the Medina. In general, the city is divided into three parts:

1. Fes el-Bali is the old Medina, surrounded by a medieval wall and consisting of a thousand streets and lanes. This giant pedestrian area is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Old Medina is divided into districts. Potters live in some, weavers live in others, and tanners live in others. Some of its streets are very narrow, but most importantly, they are very confusing. A map in hand and excellent orientation skills on the spot can clearly let you down in such an immense and mysterious Fes el-Bali.
2. Fes Jdid is the new Medina, which is separated from the old Medina by a medieval wall with many beautiful gates. The most important of them is the battlements of Bab-bu-Jelud. This part of Fez is filled with markets, shops, restaurants. It is less confusing, but more touristy.
3. New Fez - everything that is outside the Medina. This part of the city is unremarkable. There are ordinary houses and all kinds of transport, railway station, bus station, airport. In general, the civilization familiar to us.

If we talk about where in Fez it is best to stay, then definitely in the new Medina, or maybe outside of it, but within walking distance from it. And here's why: Fez-Jdid is located as if between that part of the city where it is interesting, and the one where you need to visit. Fes el-Bali is located as if in the depths of the city, and upon arrival in Fes, you need to not only walk kilometers to it, but also try very hard to find the same housing in these millions of intricate streets, and therefore it is not best area for life. It is completely illogical to stop in the new Fez, after all, the same imperial Fez should be much closer. But the new Medina is the golden mean.

Housing types

Tourism is very well developed in Morocco, which means that the issue of housing for travelers is completely resolved. In Fes, of course, there are the usual, familiar to many, hotels and hostels, but in addition to this, there is also traditional Moroccan housing, which is divided into Dar and Riad.

Dar is translated from Arabic as a house, inside of which there is always a courtyard. Riad is translated as a palace and implies the presence of an internal garden. Both are very common on Moroccan soil, but only among the rich population. However, for us travelers, the Moroccans came up with a great idea and opened their hotels, hostels or guesthouses, but in the form of gifts or riads. The main difference between the palace and the house is only in the modesty of the second, but both of them are very beautiful and comfortable. Both are decorated in Arabian style with tall delightful doors, colorful lamps, patterned tiles, a sea of ​​pillows, a fountain in the center of the patio and plants around. And their courtyards are ideal for tea parties, good thoughts and familiarization with the Arab world. Therefore, staying in such traditional havens, you can fully plunge into Moroccan life.

You can book accommodation in advance at. Out of season, you can check in without a reservation, besides, the owners can make a discount. Housing prices in Fes are quite reasonable. You can find chic expensive and quite comfortable, but at the same time budget: from 5 to 500 EUR per night.

From personal experience

During our stay in Fes, we managed to live in two completely different hostels. The first was Dar Rabha, a small but very nice hostel. It is located five minutes from the main entrance to the new Medina. Dar seems to be hidden from the eyes of passers-by, so finding it is not so easy. One kind Moroccan helped us with this. From the outside, the hostel looked quite dull, but inside, surprisingly, it turned out to be magnificent. The hostel has a terrace, free breakfasts and all helpful information about the city. One night in a shared room costs 5 EUR per person. Of the minuses of the hostel: a little cool in terms of temperature and atmosphere. But overall, I highly recommend Dar.

The second was Riad Verus. It is located outside the new Medina, but close to it. Also hidden and also unremarkable, judging by the front door. When you go inside, you really find yourself in a palace. In a magnificent Moroccan palace. A fountain gurgles on the patio, you are treated to mint tea and you meet new interesting people. This Riad is very atmospheric, with a huge terrace and views of the whole Fes, with sumptuous breakfasts and great guides to the old Medina for only 5 EUR per person. One night in such a riad costs 8 EUR. In addition to all the pluses of the palace, there was one sharp minus - the owner’s poor musical taste, which turned on techno from morning to night. But for all this time so many guests have changed, but there are no fewer opinions that this minus could have turned into a plus for a long time. In general, I recommend.

By the way, for lovers of apartments and homestay, Morocco can also offer options. Although this is a third world country, such housing is quite developed in it, although not very popular. A huge plus of using such guest networks is getting out of your comfort zone and getting to know the city through communication with locals. We tried homestay not in Fez, but in Morocco, and were very satisfied.

What are the prices for holidays

Let's start with Moroccan dirhams. You can exchange currency for local money at any of the many exchange offices in the city. But each exchanger has its own exchange rate and often they are found to be too high, so it is better to first find out the rate of each counter exchange office, and only then choose the most profitable one. In my experience, for such a currency exchange, the point at the entrance to the new Medina on the right side, if you are facing the Medina itself, turned out to be the most successful. Then, in the winter of 2017, 1 EUR cost approximately 10 AED (dirham).

In general, Morocco is a very cheap country and Fez is no different from other cities in this country in terms of prices. Prices for travel and housing were given above, but as for food, everything is very comparative. For example, local delicacies and Moroccan gifts in the form of tangerines and dates are very cheap here (only 50 cents per kilo of each goodies). Factory-made products in Morocco are more expensive than usual, and they are mainly brought from Spain. Everyone's favorite Oreo in the Moroccan open spaces can cost 3 EUR, so when in Fes, it's best to join the local food one hundred percent. It's different, but also delicious.

For a price guide, Moroccan bread costs about 25 cents, water 30 cents. Large portion of couscous with chicken – 3 EUR. Moroccan tea - about 1 EUR.

Below, in the section "Food. What to try” also shows prices for food, and in the sections “Things to do” and “What to bring as a gift” prices for relevant topics are mentioned.

Clue:

The cost of food, lodging, transportation, etc.

Currency: Euro, € US dollar, $ Russian ruble, rub Moroccan dirham, MAD

Main attractions. What to see

The main and only attraction of Fez is its old medina. In it, every tangled street is dotted with markets and workshops that deserve great attention. You can wander along these streets on your own, get lost, stumble upon a small square where all kinds of metal things are forged from jewelry to teapots, and then ask everyone how to get out of this Fes el-Bali. And you can also get a guide who will not only confidently guide you through the entire Medina and tell you historical facts, but also show you places that are completely inaccessible to the tourist’s eye. For example, a guide can take you to a place where delicious Moroccan bread is baked or where wooden items are decorated with patterns. There are plenty of guides on the streets of Fez, but it is better to turn to reliable ones, who often work at hotels and hostels. An excursion with such a guide can cost 5 EUR per person for 3 hours of adventure in the unique Fez.

But the most amazing quality of Fez is its dyers, where hunched tanners work and dye leather in the ancient way, standing knee-deep in vats full of various liquids. The technique of dyeing leather is as follows: first, the leather is treated by soaking it in lime baths, and then in a solution of bird droppings, and after that the leather is rinsed in the paint for a long time and finally left to dry. All paint is exclusively natural: from henna, turmeric and other useful products.

It's rare to stumble across dye-works in old Fez. Therefore, everywhere on the way there are Moroccan guides who are ready to take you to the very dyehouses that flashed in the Clone for a small fee. They usually lead to leather goods stores, from the roofs of which there is an excellent view of the world of tanners. For freshness, they give out a sprig of mint, because there is a monstrous stench in these dye houses, and they briefly tell the process of working with leather, which they then persistently try to sell in their stores.

Top 5

Beaches. Which is better

The topic of beaches is not relevant in relation to Fes, because the city is located inland, and therefore far from the seas, oceans and beach holiday. But Morocco is not as big as it seems and only 7 hours drive from Fes is the very glorious ocean city of Essaouira, but that's another story.

What to see in 1 day

In one day in Fes, it is quite possible to have time to see everything, try it and understand whether this is your city or not. The most important thing in Fez is not to rush anywhere.

• 5:00 - wake up from how the muezzins call for prayer in cracked voices, feel this and fall asleep again.
• 8:00 - wake up already for sure, stretch and smile at a new day.
• 8:30 am – Enjoy a traditional Moroccan delicacy on the patio of the riad or on the terrace overlooking the city in anticipation of something extraordinary.
• 9:30 am – Pack up and wander around the medinas of Fes without maps, navigators and tips, go to the touch and notice every little thing.
• 11:00 - Moroccan tangerines and mint tea.
• 11:30 - buy, sign and send a postcard to yourself or your loved ones, thus sharing your first impressions of Fez.
• 12:00 - dine at one of the vending street restaurants with tajine or harira.
• 14:00 - find an excellent guide in the old Medina of Fes and already with him see a completely different city, hidden from the eyes of visitors.
• 16:00 - with or without a guide, look at one of the dye houses of the city, hear the story of the process of such hard work, be horrified by the aromas, remember Zhadi from the Clone, who ran among similar or the same vats to meet love, capture this place on camera and in memory.
• 16:30 - refresh yourself with avocado juice and stock up on useful souvenirs, honing your bargaining skills.
• 17:00 - return to the riad to dine marshmallows and oriental sweets on the terrace overlooking the sunset Fes.
• 18:00 - go to cafe Barcelona for a concert of traditional Moroccan music.
• 19:00 - visit one of the best hammams in the city and thereby get a real Moroccan experience.
• 20:00 - finally take a walk around Fes and decide whether the city has charmed or not.
• 20:30 - inspired by such a busy and interesting day, stay for a while in Fez or buy a bus ticket to a close, famous, glorious blue village and set off on a new adventure.

Food. What to try

In Fez, as in the rest of Morocco, the food is succulent, spicy, but not overly varied. Five courses and that's where Moroccan cuisine ends. You can read more about these 5 traditional dishes (mint tea, tagine, couscous, harira, Moroccan salad) at. And here I will talk about other highlights of the national cuisine.

One of the typical Moroccan breakfasts consists of a fruit salad with yogurt, a long loaf with cheese and an egg with spices, a bun and a cake so similar to our Soviet sweets, freshly squeezed orange juice and mint tea. In another version of the breakfast, olives with olives and excellent Moroccan bread can be found. Such breakfasts are often served in hostels.

Morocco is rich in the most delicious tangerines in the world, which cost quite a penny. They are sold in the endless fez markets at a price of only 50 cents per kilogram. Still, juices are often made from tangerines and sold on the streets of the Medina. Also on Moroccan soil, avocado is very common, which is added to salads, but even better when it is whipped with milk and sugar in a blender and you get a very satisfying delicious avocado cocktail. Such a drink can be tasted in street stalls or in city restaurants for 1.5 EUR. In addition to healthy fruits, Morocco also has completely unhealthy and very sweet oriental sweets.

There is another very tasty and unusual dish in Moroccan cuisine - pastila. This is a kind of chicken and peanut pie topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon in the shape of a Star of David. This is a must try. You will definitely not remain indifferent. Pastila is available in almost every restaurant in Fes for 4-5 EUR.

Almost the entire Fes-Jdid is dotted with restaurants and cafes where both tourists and locals eat and drink tea. In terms of price categories, they almost do not differ, but the friendliness of the owners and waiters plays a decisive role in choosing one or another place for lunch, dinner or regular tea.

We liked the place at the main gate to the new Medina on the right hand. A father and son work there and both of them are very kind, they speak almost all the languages ​​of the world and cook very tasty marshmallows.

Safety. What to watch out for

About security in Morocco as a whole is very well described in. From my own experience I can say that Fez is not at all criminal, but there are no less pickpockets and scammers in safe Europe. But in Fez, as in other parts of Morocco, you must always be on the alert and not fall into the trust of the Moroccans, who are looking for profit in everything and very rarely just help.

I traveled with my young man, whose appearance is somewhat close to the Arab, so wherever we were together, he was always treated as one of his own, and I, as it should be in the Muslim world, was not directly addressed. When I went out into the street alone, I was always surrounded by excessive obsessive attention. Therefore, in the Arab world, it is safer for a girl to travel in a male escort, but covering her head with a scarf, gathering courage and ignoring everything superfluous, one can completely travel around Morocco alone. Throughout our journey, we met several of these brave ones.

As for night walks in Fes, it is better to refrain from this. As for deceit, then, in my opinion, the Moroccans are very smart and cunning, which means they will not deceive out of the blue. In El Maghreb, all relations are built on trade, which means that you can always agree and find a compromise. Being able to bargain, it turns out, is very cool. This is a kind of art. Very subtle and witty. Basis of Moroccan culture. Buying something and not haggling at the same time, it is even possible to offend the seller himself. Therefore, try to bring down prices and not only for the sake of profit, but also for the sake of pleasure.

Things to do

Hammam

In addition to endless walks around old Fes and sampling all the Moroccan delicacies, you can and should visit the Arab baths in the city - in the hammam.

There are two types of hammam:

1. expensive luxurious baths, similar to modern spas, but in Arabic style, and created specifically for tourists;
2. modest affordable baths, which local Moroccans go to weekly, or even more often.

I honestly rejected the first option due to its tourist orientation and excessive pomposity. And I didn’t decide on the second one for a long time, because already experienced people told me about their unusual double impression of such a hammam, and I didn’t understand whether I needed such an experience. Finally I made up my mind. I chose a place, got lost while getting to it, but finally I ended up in that legendary hammam. There were two doors in front of me. One entrance - for women, the second - for men. At the entrance was a spacious room with high ceilings and benches along the walls. It was the dressing room. Moroccan women stood there at the entrance and told what the salt of the hammam was. In such a hammam, you can just come and wash yourself, or you can be washed and even given a massage. Of course, I agreed to the latter. Washing yourself is nothing new. It cost me 10 EUR, but I had to bargain.

When I undressed, I was taken to another room, already smaller, but still with huge ceilings. The room was filled with women and girls sitting on the stone floor and pouring water over themselves from buckets. They put me next to them, surrounded me with buckets full of water, and began to wash with black special soap. Washed so hard that I was afraid for my tattoo. Everything worked out. I was rinsed, massaged and released. I was delighted. Honestly! First of all, I have never felt so clean before. And secondly, it was an unexpected cool experience, and most importantly, it was something really Moroccan.

Cafe

In addition to the hammam, in Fes you should look into one very modern Moroccan cafe, which, surprisingly, is called. Outside, it looks quite ordinary, but inside it is very stylish in Arabic. This cafe often hosts concerts of traditional Moroccan music. Tickets for concerts are paid, about 3 EUR, but the entrance ticket includes any free drink. All the golden youth of Fez gather for concerts, which, it turns out, differ little from the European one: just as liberated and mobile. And this cafe was the only place where I saw so many Muslim women at once and all without a hijab.

This cool place is located on Talaa Kebira street, in the new Medina. The cafe is notable, so you won't miss it. On TripAdviser, by the way, there are reviews and photos of this very Barcelona cafe.

In general, the place, music and atmosphere are very impressive and Fez opens up as if from a different, previously invisible side.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Fez is no different from other Moroccan cities in terms of traditional gizmos, which, after leaving the Oriental fairy tale, you can take home as a keepsake or for good, or give them and please your loved ones. The only thing: Fez is a city of leather workers, as we have already decided earlier. So leather and all kinds of leather goods in Fez should be much cheaper than in other Moroccan corners. Keep this in mind when trading, because many traders cheerfully and confidently call super high prices. For example, I bought a belt bag for 9 EUR in Chefchaouen, and in Fez they wanted to sell me exactly the same bag for no less than 20 EUR. The difference is palpable.

In about Morocco, the main traditional souvenirs of North Africa are described. But those that were not included in that article, I will describe here.

In addition to some of the above, I brought pillowcases made of cactus thread, stylish jackets with hoods and Berber patterns, and a lot of argan in the form of creams and oils for both body and cooking. Also, I brought them stories, sun and good mood.

How to move around the city

Fes is quite small, and all its sights are just interesting places located within the Medina, so the best way to get around the city is on foot. In addition, the entry of any vehicle into the Medina is strictly prohibited.

Taxi. What features exist

Taxi is a great option if you need to get from the airport to the city center or vice versa, as well as to the train station or bus station. The trip will take about 10 minutes and will not cost much. You can find out the approximate prices for a taxi in advance at the hotel / hostel or at the airport, train station or bus station. But within 5 EUR you will be taken to the right place. Only cash is accepted for payment. And you can catch a taxi at every corner, but it also happens that taxis line up in an organized way, which can be seen from a kilometer away.

Taxis in Fes are very, very common, not only for tourists. Locals, in the absence of their own car, willingly take a taxi, and cunning taxi drivers recruit everyone they meet on the way as passengers. Thus, trips in a crowded taxi are not uncommon, but the norm. There is a huge plus in all this - fun and very Moroccan.

Transport rental

Renting a car in Morocco is very common and easy. And Fes is no exception.

To rent a car, you need an international driver's license and money. Vehicle rental companies, both local and international, are equally good. Only the latter can cost much more, but they are still more reliable. On average, renting a regular car costs 45 EUR per day, excluding taxes, mileage, insurance, and so on. You can see the cost of the car you are interested in in a city of Morocco convenient for rent. Gasoline compared to European is also inexpensive.

Fez - holidays with children

In Morocco in general, it is very common to find large families with children traveling around the country by car. However, Fez is not at all adapted to the little guests: no entertainment they are used to and even no interest in the city itself. But in Fez, you can stop for a couple of days to take a break from the road and soak up the sun from the terrace, and then go to the mountains to snowboard and ski. Kids love it, even if they don't know how yet.

Ski holidays

From December to April, the ski season is open on the tops of the Atlas Mountains of Morocco.

One of the best ski resorts - Ifrane, just located near Fes. You can get to it either by rented car or by CTM bus. The mountains there, they say, are excellent, and are suitable for both amateurs and professionals.

We have not had a chance to experience these majestic mountains yet, but everything is ahead! Have a great trip around Fes and in those parts :).